Ah, Prague — fairytale city of 100 spires; famous for its castle, astronomical clock, Jewish cemetery and beer. But it's nearly 20 years since the Velvet Revolution opened this formerly communist country to Western tourists, and frankly, the Czech capital has been relying on this quaint image for far too long.
Even the city knows it. A recent TV commercial for Prague, showing supermodels Petra Nemcova and Tatiana Kucharova whizzing by these very attractions, was lambasted by local critics as clichéd.
So with plenty of rival "new Pragues" competing for tourist dollars these days, where can you find a slightly less stereotypical view of the old one? Here's a small selection of places to begin.
Don't stop after the main castle; visit Vysehrad, too
Prague Castle is the big set-piece, with its Gothic spires and medieval ramparts overshadowing the Vltava River. However, in the city's south, there was a rival seat of power and these castle's ruins are also worth visiting. Today,
Vysehrad is an enormous, walled plateau floating high above the river and looking north across the city. (Those modernist swoops of concrete belong to the Emmaus Monastery.) Up here, you'll find an atmospheric Art Deco cemetery with beautifully tiled mosaics, a church and spectacular views. Pop into the beer garden for a barbecue, or bring your own picnic.
Find the parody of the Wenceslas statue
In Prague, good King Wenceslas is not just for Christmas; he looks out every day at the square bearing his name. Mounted on a magnificent steed, his statue is generally revered, but in the nearby Lucerna shopping passage, a leading contemporary Czech artist has completely taken the mickey. In his sculpture 'Horse' (
Kun),
David Cerny puts Wenceslas astride the belly of an upside-down, dead steed hanging from the ceiling, with its tongue poking out.
Cerny's entertaining modern art is found across town. His huge 'Babies' (Miminka) crawl up the Zizkov TV tower, while a Sigmund-Freud look-a-like is 'Hanging Out' (Viselec) by his fingertips above the corner of Husova and Skorepka streets. Even cheekier is 'Piss' (Proudy), where two cyber-men pee out famous quotes into a Czech-Republic-shaped pond before the Kafka Museum . SMS the number beside them, and they'll pause mid-flow to spell out your message.
Trade in Charles Bridge for Petrin Hill
Famous for its saintly statues, artists, views and, erm, crowds and pickpockets, the oldest bridge on the Vltava River is certainly a victim of its own success. These days, it's also half-closed for reconstruction, making a detour to nearby Petrin Hill even more appealing. Ride the dinky funicular to the top, where there's a lookout tower and several eateries.
In freezing winters, there's some urban skiing and snowboarding up here; but year-round, the real joy is to walk around the hillside to Strahov Monastery. There's a small viewing platform just south of the monastery, where the view is unbeatable. Before leaving, make a brief stop at next door's Museum of Miniatures.
Kafka is not the only Czech writer
Someone must have been making fun of Franz K, for without having done anything wrong he was turned into a piece of tourist kitsch. Yes, with tacky Kafka T-shirts draped around the Old Town, it's time to follow the trail of Jaroslav Hasek. The author of the
Good Soldier Svejk lived, worked and drank in Zizkov, a suburb claiming to have the world's highest density of pubs. Try Borivojova Street, or the summertime beer garden in Riegrovy Sady park.
Hilly Zizkov has a statue of Hasek, plus the world's largest equine statue on the towering Vitkov Hill. In February, Prague's best Masopust, or carnival, celebrations are found in the district. The neighbouring suburb of Vinohrady, much more up-market, is great for restaurants, especially along Manesova Street.
Go more cutting-edge with your crystal
Czech souvenir shops are so stuffed with traditional Bohemian glass that locals joke about a "crystal mafia". Sadly, most of the designs are so twee they'd embarrass your great-granny, so it's lucky there are alternatives. Head to
Modernista for a whole range of funky 20th-century Czech designs, from origami-like Cubist ashtrays and Bauhaus-chic tea sets to sperm-shaped teaspoons. Mad-haired
Maxim Velcovsky, with or without his partner at
Qubus, produces sleek wines glasses shaped like disposal cups on stems, in between fitting out cool local
fashion stores.
Instead of pub U Fleku, try Pivovar U Bulovky …
… or U Cerneho Vola (Loretanske Namesti 1) or Baracnicka Rychta (Trziste 23) or any pub in Zizkov. The point is that some of Prague's most central and famous pubs, such as
U Fleku and U Zlateho Tygra, are now overpriced and full only of tourists.
Way out in the suburbs, Pivovar U Bulovky keeps on winning national awards for its homemade brews and it has a genuinely local atmosphere. Central U Medvidku (Na Perstyne 7) initially appears to be overrun by tourists until you find the small back bar upstairs, selling delicious Oldgott beer. Pivovarsky Dum (on the corner of Jecna and Lipova) and U Rudolfina (Krizovicka 10) are also good halfway options — touristy but with an enduring streak of authenticity.
Other lesser-known Prague delights:
The world's only Cubist lamppost — hidden behind the Bata store on Wenceslas Square.
Coffee houses — giving Vienna a run for its money in looks and atmosphere, if not the actual brew.
Kampa Island — a lovely green oasis, with an excellent modern art collection from Museum Kampa and the Bohemian bar over the wooden bridge by the water-wheel.
Czech Fashion Centre and the street of Karoliny Svetle — the first is a small conglomeration of different shops offering affordable Czech designer gear; the second, north off Narodni, is worth a wander for second-hand clothes, street fashion and cheap cafes.
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