For those who thought skiing was about snow conditions, trail maps and racing down hills, you've got it all wrong. Beyond the slopes of Thredbo and Perisher lies a whole other world far removed from the icy conditions outside; a world of hot chocolate, schnapps, warm fires and massive hangovers. To those uninitiated to the snow bunny club, après ski is where all the real action is.
The French know how to have a good time, so is it any wonder it's called après ski or more simply, after ski. To many it's where the real fun lies and ski resort centres like Whistler, Aspen and Chamonix have it down to a science. These mammoth winter wonderlands have incorporated huge cobbled stone boulevards, town squares and row upon row of bars at the base of the chairlifts and within walking or skiing distance of the slopes.
Unfortunately, in Australia we aren't that lucky. Most ski resorts don't have major village-style facilities at the base of their hills and the closest thing we have to Whistler or Aspen would be at the base of Thredbo.
Thredbo
After more than 50 years in the business, Thredbo has changed with the times by providing Australia's most noticeably village atmosphere. A plethora of bars, nightclubs, restaurants and boutiques surround a central town square circled by picturesque chalet-style buildings offering everything from high end dining to debauched nights in packed out bars.
For fine dining, head to Santé, which offers Australian cuisine in an intimate setting. If you're after a more casual experience, head over to T-Bar restaurant, which is centrally located in the village square and offers a very Aussie atmosphere, with no shortage of kangaroo or bison on the menu.
But for a real party, there are only two spots in the village that will impact on your next day's performance on the slopes — Keller bar and Schuss bar.
Kicking off around 10pm, Schuss offers live nightly music and attracts both tourists and locals. On this particular night during the winter holidays, it was packed to the rafters and a long queue had formed at the door. Rather small and cramped, this place can become packed and elbow room becomes a premium. A small dance floor shows itself later on in the night as your garden variety top 40 music is played. On this night, a DJ was playing everything from Sneaky Sound System to TV rock.
Those who want to kick on after Schuss closes at 1am head downstairs to Keller Bar. A larger version of Schuss, Keller stays open until 3am and many diehard skiers and boarders stay till the very end. Whether they make it for the first lift in the morning is unclear.
If large crowds and loud music aren't your thing, head to Lounge Bar at the Alpine Hotel. Lounge Bar is a classy and upscale place of refuge offering a large variety of cocktails in a cosy setting, complete with working fireplace and comfy lounges.
For everyone else, Thredbo also has a large variety of shopping, cafes and of course, the Thredbo Leisure Centre. The centre is only a five-minute walk from the village and has an Olympic swimming pool, spas, fitness centre, squash, mini golf and a waterslide. It's a great place to go for a soak and to lessen those pains in your muscles.
Perisher
Down the road in Perisher Blue, the après ski scene is a little less noticeable compared to Thredbo's in your face approach. Lacking a central village, Perisher does things differently.
During the day, the Pub & Food Court at front valley is a great place to unwind between runs and take in the views. After lunch, head outside and have a quick schnapps shot before you hit up the hills. It does a great job of warming the insides.
If you're after a decent three-course dinner, head up to Clancy's, which is at the Man from Snowy River Hotel, aptly called the Man. Floor to ceiling windows offer stunning views in a classy yet relaxed atmosphere with piano bar and lounge. The food comes in large portions and manages to quell those hunger pains with ease. A sufficient wine list offers other options.
After dinner, head next door to The Man pub, a great place to meet friends or take in a footy game. A large selection of beer is on tap and it's not too pricey. Pool tables and dart boards help pass the time.
Other options include Jax Bar & Grill and Bazil's, all within a few minutes of each other at the Perisher Centre.
Because Perisher lacks a central village, plans are in the works for an overhaul of its central plan. Perisher plans on building a massive village resort which will dramatically bring it up to par, if not pass Thredbo's village. Perisher's new plan calls for dozens of new bars and restaurants, a massive fitness and wellness centre and even an outdoor skating rink.
