Malaysia Insider: Richard Ryan

Malaysia Insider: Richard Ryan

Richard moved to Malaysia in 2004 and by now knows the place backwards and forwards.

WHERE NOT TO GO

 Where NOT to go

Where NOT to go

Don't waste your time with these tourist trap pit-falls. Our Insider's got a better idea of how you can spend your holiday.

NEAR THE BEATEN TRACK

 Near the beaten track

Near the beaten track

For the down-low on the essentials in and around KL, check out this list by our expert expat in Malaysia.

ITINERARIES

 Dawn to dusk itinerary

Dawn to dusk itinerary

Not planning on spending long in Kuala Lumpur? Here's how you can get a taste of the city in less than 24 hours.
 Two week itinerary

Two week itinerary

In two weeks you can really see the best the country has to offer without running around at break-neck speed.

LISTS

 Hit the beach

Hit the beach

Malaysia's got some of the most spectacular beaches in the world. Let our Insider take you around the best of the best.
 Luxuriate!

Luxuriate!

Stretch your dollar on a few indulgences while you're here — Malaysia's got some of the best (and most affordable) pampering options going.

MALAYSIA GALLERIES

Malaysia's orangutansMalaysia's orangutans

The Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary on the eastern Malaysian island of Borneo is home to over a hundred of these beautiful endangered and orphaned animals. Malaysia's best beachesMalaysia's best beaches

Malaysia is home to some of the most beautiful beaches and jaw-dropping diving in all of Asia. Check out some of our favourite patches of sand and surf.

Hotel reviews

 Hotel reviewsMalaysia's all about affordable luxury. But let Richard give you the full, unbiased view of an expert expat.

Other travellers’ favourites

Pride of a nation Malaysia insider by Richard Ryan Jan 21 2009 4:47PM

Spend any time in Malaysia and you'll soon here the phrase "Malaysia boleh!" Essentially it's the national catchphrase and means "Malaysia can do" — a rallying call to overcome any defeatist thoughts that people might have.

There aren't many countries that have such a catchphrase. A splendid flag, yes. A rousing anthem, certainly … but a catchphrase? That's rare. However, it encompasses a Malaysian attitude of wanting to get things done.

No longer is Malaysia happy to be seen to be a poor relation to Singapore. Now, every time they set about doing something it invariably has to be the biggest and the best. And this leads into a second Malaysian love: breaking records.

Nearly every new project lays claim to some record-breaking achievement. Obviously, there's the Petronas Towers, but each new mall calls itself "the biggest in Asia" — the flagpole in Merdeka Square was, at 100m, the highest in the world when it went up — and barely a weekend goes by without someone making an attempt at "the world's biggest curry puff" or suchlike.

There's even a Malaysian Book of Records, filled not with records from around the world but from just Malaysia itself.

Did you know that Kam Su-Sze swam 50 metres at the age of two years six months, the longest distance ever swum (or is it swam, I can never quite remember) by a Malaysian toddler? And are you yet to be astounded by the giant that is Hoo Sun Foo, Malaysia's tallest man at a giddy 6ft 9in (2.1m)?

I might try and set a record myself … any ideas on what to go for?

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Water sight to see Malaysia insider by Richard Ryan Jan 20 2009 10:57AM

It's the monsoon season in Malaysia at the moment, which always throws up some amazing things, from incredible thunderstorms to rain you could literally shower in.

Anyway, yesterday the weather decided to give us a rainbow that arched up straight over downtown KL and the Petronas Towers. I climbed out on the ledge outside my office window to get a picture. Not sure the company insurance would have covered me for that, but I think it was worth the risk.

The monsoons are incredible. The sky goes black, everything seems to go silent for a moment, then, with a crack of thunder, the rain starts and all hell breaks loose. Water pours down, roads flood, people crash cars … then the sun breaks through and it's all over.

It usually only lasts 30 minutes or so. All that drama and then the sun dries everything off like it never happened. The only real benefit is that it always makes for a cool evening, so it's perfect when you have plans to sit outside and eat.

People avoid coming to Malaysia during the monsoon, which I think is crazy — it's the most interesting time of year. Okay, you might get a little damp in the afternoon but I promise you two things: the rainwater is unusually warm, and you'll dry out within a short period of getting drenched.

Now that's what I call soaking in a culture.

Have you travelled Asia during the wet season? Did you find it a worthwhile time to avoid the crowds and put up with the elements? Tell us about it.

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Taxing taxis Malaysia insider by Richard Ryan Jan 13 2009 10:56AM

Malaysians are very proud people, so there are few national topics that a foreigner can speak negatively about without causing offence. However, on one topic everyone agrees: taxis in Malaysia are terrible. Ask anyone.

The majority are Proton Sagas, a car launched in 1985 and churned out with no significant revisions until last year. It's not cutting-edge, comfortable motoring and it must make a terrible impression on the tourists who arrive in Malaysia expecting to be blown away by how modern and thrusting things are here.

This morning I got into a taxi that had no wing mirrors. That's a new low.

I should have known it wasn't going to go well when the driver tried to lie by saying they don't use meters in the middle of town. A small argument ensued and I, extremely begrudgingly, found myself handing over RM10 for a five-minute trip just because I was in a hurry and out of options.

It turned out that I didn't have to worry about the wing mirrors anyway — the driver didn't have any need for them. In fact, he didn't give the impression he needed any of the motoring accessories available to him, including indicators or brakes.

All in, it was entirely possible that the steering wheel, horn and accelerator were the only bits of his vehicle that he had any kind of passing acquaintance with. We eventually made it to my destination safely, but I can now see why the Pope kisses the ground whenever he arrives somewhere new. I felt like doing the same thing.

Have you had a dodgey taxi experience in Asia? Tell us about it.

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Food, glorious food Malaysia insider by Richard Ryan Jan 6 2009 11:04AM

If you're coming to visit Malaysia you might be wondering what the must-try dishes are. Personally, I'd say the short answer is "all of them", but here are my top three, just to get you started:

Nasi lemak

This is essentially the national dish of Malaysia and can be eaten for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Keep an eye out for banana leaves folded into little green pyramids. You can get nasi lemak on a plate, but for some reason this mix of boiled rice, egg, peanuts, anchovies and spicy gravy (called sambal) always tastes best from a leaf.

Roti canai

If one Malaysian food could be accused of being totally addictive, it'd be this one. Roti means bread, but this is more of a chewy dough, flattened like a pancake and cooked with oil. You can have it with a spicy gravy but, for me, roti pisang is king — roti stuffed with bananas. Throw in a sweet teh tarik to drink (half tea, half condensed milk) and you have perfection on a plate.

Satay

If you think of Malaysian food before you visit, this will probably be the delicacy that comes to mind — meat on a stick, cooked over a barbecue and served with a peanut sauce. It's simple, succulent and not to be missed. The satay will usually come with a little side of cucumber slices and rice squares. The Malaysians say you should eat a piece of cucumber after each stick to stop it being too "heaty" on your stomach. I've never quite understood the concept of "heaty" (mango is also a "heaty" food, apparently) but it does no harm to go along with it!

Do you eat like a local when you travel? Tell us about your experiences below.

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Service 'in a while', part two Malaysia insider by Richard Ryan Dec 17 2008 1:17PM

Someone mentioned to me that I may have been a little harsh last week.

In fairness then, I should point out that customer service in Malaysia isn't always so laid-back. When I step into the Body Shop the sales assistants pounce on me so fast that I often find myself backing out before I've even looked at anything. It's one thing for them to be attentive, but it's quite another for them to essentially climb onto my back and ride me round the store while commenting on each and every item I glance at.

Perhaps I should say at this stage that I'm painting with broad strokes. The people who put up with my ludicrously complicated Starbucks order every morning are so lovely that I just want to take them home.

However, I still maintain that service culture is not especially prevalent in Malaysia. It also appears that there's no significant improvement if you move to the higher end of the financial scale.

A few weeks ago I went looking for a new car and, after a good 10 minutes of poking round the showroom, sitting in Protons, playing with switches and making "vroom, vroom" noises, I found myself having to go into a back room in search of a salesman to help me.

Actually, I take it all back … being left alone by a car salesman was actually quite a nice experience. Perhaps there's something in this lack of service after all.

Is there a happy medium? Have you discovered it in Malaysia or on your other travels? Tell us about it.

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Service 'in a while' Malaysia insider by Richard Ryan Dec 10 2008 9:37AM

Customer service seems like a pretty simple concept to me: find a customer, give them what they want, smile. Seriously, it couldn't be simpler.

Why then does it seem to fall down so miserably in Malaysia? The people here are intelligent and kind — two qualities that should see Malaysia leading the world in terms of customer satisfaction. And yet when I wait for a repair man who's booked to arrive at 10am, I know I'll still be waiting come 10pm.

Last Wednesday I took a day off work to have a new telephone line installed. I was told to expect the phone company's crack line-fitting team at 11am. This slipped to 2pm, then 3pm and 4pm. But I stuck with it because every time I spoke to the telephone man he gave me the same assurance: "I'm just five minutes away."

He eventually, came round at 8pm. Of course, I could have gone to work and arrived home by then, so I'd taken a day off for nothing. I feel I should be compensated for that.

I want to see Mr Telephone turn up at my office in a wig and a depressingly large amount of padding pretending to be me for a day while I head to the beach and actually enjoy a real day off.

Have you experienced the 'service in a while' mentality in Malaysia, or in other parts of the world during your travels? Tell us about it.

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