With an "open-jaw" ticket flying into Ho Chi Minh City and leaving from Hanoi, it's possible to hit Vietnam's main attractions in a couple weeks.
Start with a couple of nights in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), enough time to shop on Dong Khoi Street and see some war sights (Reunification Palace, War Remnants Museum and a half-day trip to Cu Chi Tunnels).
Most visitors see the Mekong Delta on organised, three-day tours, but if you're feeling a bit more adventurous and you have time to go on your own just take a bus to Vinh Long (about three hours).
Mekong Travel (phone +84 70 383 6252, e-mail vinhlongmekongtravel@yahoo.com, 1 Thang 5 Street, No 8) can arrange a homestay on An Binh Island. The next day rent a bike to go around the island or take a motorcycle taxi or car to the flower market at Sa Dec (an hour west), where Marguerite Duras based her novel The Lover.
Bus back to Ho Chi Minh City, fly to Danang in central Vietnam and take a taxi to nearby Hoi An for three nights. A former Chinese trading town, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, the centre is packed with handicrafts stores and tailors who can create suits and dresses in 24 hours. The next day take a dawn trip to beat the crowds at the Cham ruins of My Son (Vietnam's best ancient site, though no Angkor Wat). After breakfast, ride 3km to the Cua Dai Beach. The last day, either take a full-day snorkel tour to Cham Island; a cooking class at Red Bridge (phone +84 510 3933 222), reached by a boat ride from the centre; then pick up your new Hoi An tailor-made outfit.
The five- or six-hour ride north to Hue is best enjoyed if you take it in one full day by private taxi. You can stop off at Marble Mountain south of Danang, and visit cave pagodas and see views of China Beach below. Then drop by Bach Ma Mountain, a national park with a couple of thrilling jungle hikes, before finishing up in the former capital Hue for a couple of nights.
A day is enough time to see the Citadel in town (bombed during the Tet Offensive in 1968, now largely renovated), ride to a couple of royal tombs (Tu Duc's and Khai Dinh's are the best), and sample Hue's unique contribution to Vietnamese cuisine: bite-sized glutinous rice, tapas-style snacks, usually served with shrimp and topped with dried pork, and dipped into fish sauce.
Either go by overnight train or fly to Hanoi, for two nights. Walk around the historic neighbourhoods and Hoan Kiem Lake; shop in the cathedral district just west; and spend another day visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Van Mieu (the Temple of Literature) and the superb Ethnography Museum, a taxi ride east of the centre.
Finish the trip with a two-day cruise past limestone caves and swimming spots at Halong Bay, named for its "descending dragon" shape. Budget trips sometimes mean dodgy boat conditions; a reliable mid-range option is Kangaroo Cafe tours (phone +84 4 328 9931, www.kangaroocafe.com, 18 Bao Khanh Street, Hanoi). Return to Hanoi and fly home.
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