Harajuku

Almost every tourist will walk down Takeshita Dori, Harajuku's youth fashion hub. But many people are nervous about venturing into shops — and the best stuff is inside. Check out Takenoko (about half-way down) for an outlandish take on subculture fashions. The third floor of Zenmall at the top of the street has the most garish and weirdly wonderful suits you're ever likely to see. And keep an eye out for Store My Ducks — the English on the T-shirts inside is just as weird. Photography is forbidden at many shops.

Ebisu Yokocho

It may be missing some of the grit and grime of alleys like Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku, but this recently opened clutch of restaurants and bars has a vibrant atmosphere and is off the radar for most tourists. Ebisu Yokocho is just one station down from Shibuya. Constructed in 2008 in a building that was scheduled for demolition, it comes alive each evening with workers scoffing yakitori and drinking beers while perching on stools and milk crates. The Ebisu Yokocho website (Japanese only): www.ebisu-yokocho.com/access.html.

Yurakucho

When you get off at Yurakucho station, walk towards Tokyo Station. You'll soon hit the Tokyo International Forum Building, a steel-and-glass wonder with a roof that looks like the exposed hull of a ship. When you're done gawping, walk in the other direction and you'll soon reach the Ginza crossroads (look for the huge Fuji-Ya sign). Instead of turning towards the department stores and exclusive restaurants, keep following the tracks and you'll soon find some of the most atmospheric yakitori (grilled chicken) joints in Tokyo. Marugin (built into the tracks on the east side, about halfway to Shimbashi station) is especially delicious, but if it's your first time, just pick out a smoky spot under the red lanterns at anywhere that looks good and order some meaty sticks and a cold beer.

Shimokitazawa

This bohemian neighbourhood, a short train ride away from Shibuya, is like Harajuku's older, hipper cousin. Tiny bars, restaurants, guesthouses and second-hand clothing stores abound. For decent coffee, try Maldive, which has been serving up espresso since 1984. Legendary (and tiny) bar Eat a Peach has been around even longer, since 1974. You may have to line up for yakitori restaurant Tecchan, near the station's north exit, but it's worth it. There are heaps of funky little shops up the hill from the north exit — Haight & Ashbury has a big range of second-hand rags with a '70s vibe.

Kichijoji

About 15 minutes west of Shinjuku on the Chuo line, Kichijoji is often rated as Tokyo's top spot to live. The area has a creative reputation, and there's a tonne of bars and restaurants. Iseya is a famously smoky restaurant that serves dirt cheap booze and grilled chicken —go to the branch next to the park for the best atmosphere. Inokashira Park is home to animator Hayao Miyazaki's Ghibli Museum, a must-see for anime fans. . Just north of the station, Harmonica Yokocho is an atmospheric clutch of alleys with small bars. Try Aladdin for a fun experience that's popular with Kichijoji's hipster locals – shisha smoking and drinking over several cramped storeys (English spoken).

Naka-Meguro

While it's not quite the hotbed of hipster activity some have made it out to be, there are some great spots in Naka-Meguro. Nakame-Takkyu is a bar with a table tennis set-up, hidden inside an apartment building. It's tricky to find but well worth it for the quirky atmosphere. Click the little map on the website for directions. A short walk from the station is a small clutch of restaurants and bars right next to the Meguro River. Combine Cafe is a book-filled bohemian hangout with reasonably priced food that's a great place to spend a few hours. The French restaurant and tiny bar adjacent are also great choices.

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