Full-moon party

The world-famous full-moon party on Ko Pha Ngan probably peaked more than a decade ago. At least that's what old hands or dullards will tell you, given half the chance. Maybe so, but frankly, who gives a damn? It's still an event worth investigating for yourself, if only once.

Towards the peak of the festive season, the island is fully booked, leaving stranded revellers to sleep on concrete restaurant floors, or even take shelter in Buddhist temples. You can try making an advance phone or online booking, but resorts are often disinclined to make or honour these reservations, and many operate with three to seven nights as minimum stays over the FMP. The only way to ensure you're not disappointed is to get to Ko Pha Ngan about four days early, or stay on neighbouring Koh Samui and commute to and from the rave on one of the ferry boats.

Don't write off Phuket Town too soon

Most tourists use Phuket Town as a convenient travel hub between beaches and not much more. This could be a mistake: prices here cater primarily to locals rather than tourists, so are generally lower than at the beach itself. Most of the island's main services — the official tourist office, hospitals, police and bus stations, and main post office — are based here. And Phuket Town has some great word-of-mouth eateries and nightspots, decent value accommodation, and an atmospheric Chinatown boasting striking Sino-Portuguese architecture.

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