Singapore: Where the locals dine

Michael Franco
Hawker stall at Newton Circus hawker centre. (Photo: Felix Hug / Lonely Planet Images)
Hawker stall at Newton Circus hawker centre
If forced to name one national pastime in Singapore, it would have to be eating. Here's how the locals get their fill.

Hawker centres

If you want to have a true Singaporean dining experience, head to a hawker centre — a collection of food stalls in an open-air setting. The sight of hanging ducks, fresh, cut fruits, heaps of noodles and sticks of sugar cane is exceeded only by the smells wafting through the humid tropical air — garlic, ginger, fish and the smoke from grilling satay. The food is invariably delicious and unfalteringly affordable. You can have lunch for two with dessert and soft drinks for under S$10. You'll find these culinary carnivals nearly everywhere you turn in Singapore, but some of the more recommendable ones include:
  • Lau Pa Sat is an enormous food centre, spread beneath a beautiful wrought-iron filigree canopy in the central business district;
  • Tiong Bahru Market is located in the identically-named housing estate and which specialises in lor mee, a sticky noodle dish;
  • Geylang Serai Market is near the Paya Leybar MRT and famous for its Malay dishes; and
  • Newton Food Centre is often considered one of the more touristy places, but don't let that deter you — the food is outstanding, the setting is delightful and it's easy to find, being just across from the Newton MRT stop.

If you see a pack of Kleenex on a table, move on. That means someone has choped, or reserved the spot. Speaking of Kleenex, bring your own as serviettes are not supplied. And don't be afraid to experiment. All stalls are monitored by Singaporean authorities for cleanliness. If you're concerned, you can choose one with an "A" rating, the highest rank possible. But sometimes, the biggest line — a much better indicator of quality — is at a stall with a "C" or no rating at all!

Katong Laksa

Laksa is a spicy, noodle-filled, coconut-broth-based soup that comes from the Perannakan (blended Malay and Chinese) culture. The most authentic place to get a bowl is Katong Laksa, an area just behind the Roxy Grand Mercure Hotel in the east coast on East Coast Road, where any of the several shops will set you up right. Katong Laksa is unique in that the noodles are snipped so you can eat the dish with a spoon. Makes a great morning-after meal!

Eng Seng

Along with chilli crab, black pepper crab is one of the national dishes of Singapore. You can get them both at the East Coast Seafood Centre. But for a more local, affordable and delicious experience, head to Eng Seng Seafood at 241 Joo Chiat Place, where the black pepper crab is regarded as the island's best. They open at 5pm, which is when you should plan to line up to avoid being disappointed — they always run out!

Apollo Banana Leaf

Located on Race Course Road in Little India, you'll get heaps of authentic, mouth-watering curries served on nothing but a banana leaf. Their fish-head curry is legendary and the atmosphere — full of locals chowing down — is superb.

Red Star Restaurant

A standout Chinese restaurant in a city full of them and the place to go for satisfying dim sum (yum cha). Located in an unlikely spot on the seventh floor of an office building at Blk 54, Chin Swee Road in Chinatown.

Got any other top table tips? Have your say using the comments form, below.

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