Prague's 'hoods

Prague is not a huge city. Its major sights are pretty much within walking distance of each other (see the 24-hour itinerary) and a 10-minute metro ride can you get you a fair way out of the centre. In the evenings, rid yourself of the high-priced, touristy bars, clubs and restaurants around Old Town and Wenceslas Square. While some gems can be found, more often than not you'll find crap service, bad food and inflated prices. Spend some time in the company of locals getting a true feel for the city. We don't promise it will always be pleasant; but it will be authentic!

Vinohrady This is the laid-back, greener area of Prague 2. Home to many expats, it's a great place to stay (15-20 minute walk to Wenceslas Square) or explore its bars and restaurants. From cheap ethnic restaurants to trendy bars you may find yourself back here again. The heart of the area is Náměstí Míru. The square holds markets around holidays (Christmas, Easter, wine festivals) and often there's a stage set up for music or other performances. Good eats in the area include Masala for Indian, Aromi for Italian, Amigos for Mexican and Loving Hut for vegan.

Žižkov A bit further out into Prague 3, you'll hit the more cutting edge of Žižkov. This is where you want to go for the nightlife; it reportedly has the highest number of places serving alcohol in the country. Hit Hapu for cocktails, U Sadu for a loooong night cozying up to the bar with beer (they are open until 4am) or the Akropolis — one of the best "entertainment" centres in the city. Offering two bars, live music or DJs, the sprawling, occasionally scruffy space is the best place to see unique, new music. Straddling these two districts is the large Riegrovy Sady Park. Even the weakest bit of sun will see Czechs sprawled across the grass working on their "tans". At the top (yes, the park is basically one big hill) is a beer garden extraordinaire. Tonnes of tables under trees and umbrellas plus a stage which sometimes holds concerts and a big screen TV which often shows football matches.

Holešovice

This is a district in major revitalisation mode and we like what we see. All the big cool art spaces are coming here; but the city is retaining its slightly industrial, working class roots. Dining options are still a bit on the dodgy side; pop into a random Czech pub and do like the locals with a plate of meat and dumplings washed down with lots of Czech beer. Up-all-nighters will want to hit Mecca, still one of the best clubs in the city. Art lovers will want to make the trek to Dox Centre for Contemporary Art and for some of the best Asian food in town, make a reservation at SaSaZu, the other half of which is a way cool club.

Letná

The big draw here is the huge Letná Park. Paved paths and clipped grass make it one of the most well-groomed parks in the city, and unfortunately, if you want some peace, one of the most popular. It's easy location and stunning views (it's located on a hill overlooking the river) mean the weekends see it packed with rollerbladers, strollers and beer drinkers. Oh yeah, they've got a grungy (but great) beer garden. Pick up your beer (in a plastic cup, thank you very much) from the caravan-looking-thing and join the throngs at the picnic tables.

Troja

This out of the way residential area is important to visit for three reasons: The Prague Zoo; the Prague Botanical Gardens and Troja Chateau. The Prague Zoo is quite well-regarded; interesting animal exhibits and they do a lot of good work with endangered species. The Prague Botanical Garden’s outside portion is lovely in season; especially the Japanese Garden and the historic St. Klara’s Vineyard. There’s a fabulous wine bar here that you must visit. The indoor greenhouse (Fata Morgana) you can probably skip. And finally have a wander around the impressive gardens surrounding the Troja Chateau. You can explore them in all their Baroque glory for free; but there’s an entrance fee to get inside the Chateau. The sites are within near walking distance of each other.

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