North Island, NZ: One week itinerary

North Island, NZ Insider
Waiheke has it all. (Photo: Corinne Humphrey / Lonely Planet Images)
Waiheke, 20km to the east of Auckland, pretty much has it all
"Luxury accommodation, award-winning wineries and boutique food producers are all at home on this idealists' haven."
North Island, NZ Insider

Auckland to Wellington and Martinborough

Get your cultural bearings at the Auckland's War Memorial Museum, and proceed as follows...

Auckland's outlying islands add an essential element to the city — from Rangitoto to Motutapu, and Tiritiri Matangi to Great Barrier Island, which epitomises our isolationist mentality. And then there's Waiheke, 20km to the east (take a ferry or helicopter), which pretty much has it all. Hippies and artists, who first beat a track here, were followed by lifestylers, and then the money really began pouring in. Now, luxury accommodation, award-winning wineries and boutique food producers are all at home on this idealists' haven.

Passage Rock Winery and Café has retained the essence of the original Waiheke, which is what makes it so special. The dreamy drive out here takes in gorgeous scenery and winemaker David Gander makes medal winners. Try his syrah, viognier, chardonnay and red blends with an exceptional thin-crust, wood-fired pizza. They have the "slice-of-heaven" market cornered.

The other must is Connells Bay Centre for Sculpture — an awe-inspiring art park of site-specific commissioned pieces. Enjoy around 25 works by some of New Zealand's finest sculptors on the 2km track that also takes in native bush, farmland and stunning views of the Hauraki Gulf. The guided walks are by appointment only and the park is open late October to mid-April.

Sailor extraordinaire, Andrew Rhodes, has the kind of cat and company you want to share, preferably for as long as possible. There are few people so packed full of talent (captain and chef of organic fare), natural ease and charm, and floating away on Flying Carpet will prove one of life's magical experiences. Take a day charter, book a romantic dinner for two, or head further afield and overnight at Tiritiri Matangi, Great Barrier or even Coromandel.

While you are on the island, you'd be deranged not to stop in for fat, creamy Te Matuku Bay oysters. "Kapai!"

Just like Sydney and Melbourne, the Auckland-Wellington comparisons share similarities. Wellington is the cultured cousin to Auckland's flash-brash pretensions; art is seamlessly incorporated into Wellington, whereas the offerings in Auckland are clumsy; Wellingtonians are naturally cool, Aucklanders try too hard. You'll definitely get a sense of Wellington and its people through the vibrant cafe scene and excellent contemporary cuisine on offer.

At the top end is Martin Bosley's where clever food is more than a meal, it's an experience. Logan Brown is owned by local food heroes Al Brown and Steve Logan: their hugely successful food show, Hunger for the Wild is in its second series. Their food, enjoyed in the sophisticated surrounds of the 1920s banking chamber, is always rewarding. Matterhorn is a local identity that combines the hippest, well-stocked bar with a simple yet sophisticated restaurant, where superbly constructed food is served by well-informed staff. You'd be comfortable in jeans here for a drink or frocked up for dinner.

It sounds a little gimmicky — food and wine colour-coded for flavour and aroma — but Arbitrageur at the business end of the city (Parliament) pulls it off. More than 600 local and international wines are available and Euro-style fare relies on the classics. To stay where you eat, the Bolton Hotel has Bisque, run by an award-winning chef known for his Mediterranean touch, but drawing on regional produce.

The popular cafe Floriditas is a hit for its high standards at mid-range prices. The design has a New York-meets-Wellington feel. Ernesto is another favourite — a classic Wellington boho-chic cafe. Scopa on Cuba Street, in the heart of Wellington, is perfect for cheap-o pasta and pizza options in style-y surrounds. For a show-and-tell experience of Wellington's foodie scene, get the guided version with Zest.

Wairarapa wine country

To get to the heart of boutique wine-producing country, drive over the winding Rimutakas, or take the train straight through them to the Wairarapa. Martinborough, the wine-making capital of the region, encapsulates quintessential old-school Kiwi charm. Free-draining soils and hot summers helped Martinborough make its mark as a premium pinot noir producer, but it has since branched out to successfully produce other varietals.

Not all vineyards have a cellar door but at those that do, you are likely to meet the winemakers who can talk you through tastings. There are around 40 producers here, many of whom participate in Toast Martinborough — the wine festival that attracts 10,000 punters and is a hottie on the social calendar.

Get started at Alana, which has an excellent tasting room and restaurant. Murdoch James, located in a beautiful setting, has the bistro-style Riverview cafe and also gives tours. Big names Ata Rangi and Palliser wines have won numerous awards here and internationally — try them at the cellar door. Martinborough Vineyard is an excellent example of a winery that's continued the trajectory of success from producing outstanding pinot to other varietals.

Since the worm turned and consumers have woken to organic and biodynamic produce, eco-minded winemakers have come out of the woodwork. If you are so inclined, Vynfields is a must. The Cabbage Tree is one of the smallest producers, handcrafting around 4000 bottles a year, while on a bigger scale, Tirohana Estate has cellar door, restaurant and accommodation.

Prioritise dining at Wendy Campbell's The French Bistro and to dine and stay in town, choose the Martinborough Hotel, which takes pride of place in the old square.

Next stop Greytown, affectionately known as "Gaytown", thanks to the style makeover it's had since sea changers moved in. The French Baker for Moise Cerson's real-deal artisan creations and Schoc Chocolates are essential to visit.

Have you tried any of the places on this itinerary? Got any ideas we haven't thought of? Have your say using the comments form below.

Next: Hotel reviews

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There's not many places in the world where you can experience the thrill of walking on or diving around a live marine volcano. It's been described as a "thrill of a lifetime" by many of the international tourists who visit.

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