Getting high

For the best view of the Petronas Towers don't bother getting up for the 8.30am allocation of free tickets across the Skybridge. Instead, sleep in and make your way to the Traders Hotel. Pop up to the top floor for a flawless head-on view of this Malaysian icon, plus — as luck would have it — the coolest bar in town. SkyBar, on the 33rd floor, offers guests an intoxicating view and a chic, cosmopolitan atmosphere to enjoy drinks. Luna at the Pacific Regency has a similar set-up, but with a more pretentious clientele.

Just desserts?

Food is everything in Malaysia, but nowhere more so than in Penang. A great place to see this in action is Keng Kwee Street (off Penang Road) where people queue to buy cendol, the quintessential Malaysian dessert, from two identical but competing stalls. These guys have been setting up opposite each other every day for 50 years and each has a loyal fan base. Which is better? It depends who you ask, but my vote goes with the chap on the right-hand side of the street. But at RM1.60 a bowl, treat yourself to a dessert from each and come to your own conclusion. The stalls are open from morning to 7pm.

The light fantastic

In the furthest corner of Perak, about 90 minutes past Ipoh or 45 minutes from Penang, is Nibong Tebal. While the rest of the country strives to have the flashest new building, Nibong Tebal is like going back in time. The economy is built on fish farms (and some of the freshest fish dishes you'll ever enjoy) but come sunset you'll see millions of fireflies hovering above the Sungai Udang river. They fill the trees like Christmas lights and, if you watch for a while, you'll soon see their flashing tails become synchronised. Another famous place down south is Kuala Selangor, where you can see more fireflies and savour fresh delicious seafood

Welcome to the jungle

Trekking into the jungles of Taman Negara might be fun if you like leeches, but for a taste of the rainforest without the rainforest tasting you, head to FRIM. The Forest Research Institute Malaysia is only 16km north-west of Kuala Lumpur along the Selayang-Kepong highway and gives a real sense of the jungle but without the hardship. There's even a vertigo-inducing canopy walk 30m above the forest floor. They only allow 250 people per day so make sure you call ahead (+60 3 6279 7575) to reserve your spot. Gunung Brinchang, the second highest mountain in Cameron Highlands along the Perak-Pahang border, is a must-visit as you can enjoy a spectacular view of the highlands.

Smelly the elephant

It's not often that you get to wash an elephant — well, not unless you work at the National Elephant Conservation Centre in Kuala Gandah, where, consequently, the staff are more than happy for tourists to wade in and help. Opened in 1974, when Malaysia was down to its last 500 elephants, you can taxi your way there from KL in around two hours. There are opportunities to feed and stroke the giants on dry land, but washing is the part that gets everyone excited. One tip though, stay upstream of the animals as nothing ruins a nice day out more than getting knocked off your feet by a floating elephant turd.

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