The dim sum
(yum cha) breakfast is a way of life here and at City Hall Maxim's Palace
(2/F, City Hall; phone +852 2521 1303) in Central, you can chow down with 1000 or so of the locals every Sunday morning. It's fast and furious, but there is also something organic to the organised chaos of food carts, feasting families and the odd group of Westerners there. Two pieces of advice first, you can't book, so get there early. Second, the bigger your group, the more dishes you'll get to sample.
Ten minutes away by foot is Luk Yu Tea House (24 Stanley Street, Central; phone +852 2523 5464). This is a smaller, quieter version of the traditional Chinese breakfast. Very little English is spoken here but they will give you an English menu to point at.
For high-quality goose, head to Yung Kee on Wellington Street. It's a touch pricey but the experience is worth it.
The local street-food stalls called dai pai dongs are a dying breed in Hong Kong thanks to lousy government licensing laws. However, you can still find a few if you look hard enough in the side streets, along the escalator near Hollywood Road in Central.
Fifteen minutes away in North Point, Tung Po Kitchen (Java Street Municipal Building, North Point; phone +852 2880 9399) is one dai pai dong joint that is going strong thanks to its humble offerings made well. Stir-fried noodles never tasted so delicious and the price is more than agreeable.
For plastic tables, loud conversation and some of the best fresh-cooked seafood in town, you can't beat Happy Valley Wet Market (3F, 2 Yuk Sau Street, Happy Valley; phone +852 2574 9937), just near the world-famous racecourse.