The typical way to do Dubai is as a stopover on your way to Europe, Africa or the Middle East. But can Dubai be done in a day? You can get a great taste of the place in a day, but be warned, our introduction to the real Dubai will have you planning your next trip on the plane out.

Some advice

Ignore criticisms that Dubai is a soulless city without culture — anyone who tells you that hasn't spent enough time in Dubai to let it reveal itself, probably doesn't know any Emiratis, and didn't see much more than the hotel swimming pool or shopping malls. Dubai's rich culture, history and art are intangible; they don't lie in big old buildings or paintings on museum walls, but rather in the rich oral culture, traditional storytelling, songs, dances and poetry.

Breakfast

Kickstart your day with a traditional Emirati Cultural Breakfast at the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (book ahead), in the Bastakiya area where staff give a fascinating introduction to Dubai, Arab culture and Islam over cardamom coffee.

Morning stroll

There are few historic buildings in Dubai because the Bedouin slept in goat-hair tents, fisherman and pearl divers lived in barasti (palm-frond) huts, and the merchants who settled here from Bastak, southern Iran, built homes from sand, coral and gypsum. None weathered the harsh climates well.

Many of the Bastakiya quarter's old wind-tower (barjeel in Arabic) houses have been reconstructed, and their courtyards now hold cafes, art galleries and museums. Explore the tiny quarter's narrow streets, stopping for a fruit mango juice at Basta Art Cafe.

Midday sun

Escape the heat with an entertaining dose of history at air-conditioned Dubai Museum around the corner in Al Fahidi Fort. Dubai's oldest building, the fort was built in 1787, however, the area was settled in the Bronze Age; note the fine alabaster objects inside dating to 3000BC.

The first written reference to Dubai, then a sleepy fishing and trading port, was in 1580 in the journal of Venetian jeweller Gasparo Balbi who passed by looking for pearls. The museum boasts displays of costumes, musical instruments, weapons, and archaeological finds.

Lunchtime

Try Bastakiah Nights cafe in a wind-tower house, where you can catch the courtyard breezes or dine in air-conditioned comfort in the traditionally decorated rooms. If you need a cold beer or icy alcoholic something, best take a taxi to Al Nafoorah (for Arabic food) or Noodle House (for Asian) at Emirates Towers, 15 minutes away by car.

R&R

Rejuvenate in the shade of your hotel pool then head out around 5pm to hit the souks. Gawk at the gold at Deira Gold Souk then get lost in the covered laneways on your way to the Spice Souk. Catch an abra (open-sided wooden taxi boat) across the Creek to Bur Dubai Textile Souk then stroll along the water to Shindagha, site of Dubai's first settlement, at the Creek's mouth.

Dinnertime

Check out the recreation of an old fishing and pearl-diving village before dining at al fresco Arabic eatery Kan Zaman next door, where you can smell the heady aromas of sheesha as you take in the action of Dubai Creek, enchanting at night.

Next: One week itinerary

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