Beat the crowds and head early to the Summer Palace on Beijing's northwestern outskirts. This huge complex had been the summer retreat for China's royal family for a good 1600 years, but the current array of palace buildings and temples surrounding Kunming Lake were built around 1750. The nearby Old Summer Palace was known as the "Versailles of the East" until this once opulent affair, designed by French Jesuits, was destroyed in the 19th century. The ruins, spacious parkland, countless lakes, and the comparative quiet still make it ideal for an afternoon escape.
The following day, explore the swathe of stunning new architecture that's redefining Beijing's image. The gravity defying 230 metre-high CCTV building in the city's east looks like a criss-cross of interlocking "Z"s, while the unmistakable Birds Nest (or National Stadium) and Watercube (or National Aquatics Centre), built for the Beijing Olympics, are equally awe-inspiring. Finish off near Tiananmen Square, where the spectacular glass and titanium design of the National Grand Theatre makes it appear like a giant egg floating on water.
In the days that come, start out with a bus ride into nearby Hebei Province to Jinshanling for the start of an overnight adventure along the Great Wall. The first few kilometres of this walk are damn steep, so leave the high heels at the hotel and bring plenty of water. Crumbling in parts, this authentic section of the wall is what it's all about, especially once the day-visitors have left. Having set up camp, relax under the stars with a glass of that red wine you snuck along. It can get quite chilly up here at night, even in the roasting summers, so bring a sweater.
Wake up early for your first Great Wall sunrise before continuing the trek slowly to Simatai, where you'll long to head back to town for a much-needed shower. Sleep in, then head to Liulichang Street just south of Tiananmen Square. In the Qing Dynasty calligraphers, painters and other artists used to come here to stock up on supplies, and today the street still retains that old world feel, and is a great place to check out traditional Chinese arts and crafts. Spend the rest of the day taking it easy in Beihai Park. If you're still there at dusk, join the scores who come for the nightly ballroom dancing session.
Then take another day-trip outside Beijing — this time to ancient Cuandixia Village. Built by a single family during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), more than 70 courtyard homes remain virtually unchanged. Many owners have converted them into guesthouses that serve meals and offer a tranquil retreat from the big city buzz.
Finally, it's time to spend up and load up on goodies to take home. Start off with an early morning visit to the Panjiayuan Dirt Market east of the city. In this sprawling location you'll see all the art, traditional crafts, scroll paintings and so-called antiques that are flogged everywhere else, but here they are in one place, and often much cheaper than elsewhere. If you can resist the urge to stalk the touristy Silk Street, Yashow or Pearl markets, head to the Yansha Factory Outlet or the Zoo Wholesale Market for clothes. Remember, this is not the day to forget your bargaining skills!
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