When Chinese people think “Beijing”, one of the first things that come to mind are the city’s unique and incredibly beautiful hutongs. While regularly under threat from encroaching development, there is also a movement to protect these areas of narrow alleyways and traditional courtyard housing. As a stark contrast to the faceless highrises of the city, this glimpse into “Old Beijing” can be considered living history, and is located just a short cab ride north of Tiananmen Square.

While most tourists will head to the worthy sights of the area: The Lama Temple, The Drum and Bell Tower and the lakes of Houhai, as well as the area’s most bustling alley Nanluogu Xiang, be sure to occasionally divert from these high trafficked areas and take a wander through the maze-like alleys. For example, alleys such as Wudaoying Hutong, Jiu Gulou Dajie or the art-cool complex Fangjia 46 offer some alternative walking destinations. And if you really want to live like a local, rent a bicycle and see the hutongs on wheels. 90% Travel also conduct great tours for a more in-depth look at hutong life.

And while you’re in the .hutongs area, you’ll be sure to come across a number of “hole-in-the-wall” eating establishments or street food. Don’t be afraid to give these a go! Peking duck aside, Beijing lacks the kind of distinctive cuisine that provinces such as Sichuan or Guangdong excel in. Nonetheless, they make up for this with some amazing snack food, such as delicious, steamed dumplings (jiaozi) and buns (baozi), skewers of meat and vegetables boiled in steaming tubs of broth (malatung), barbequed skewers (chuan) and savoury pancakes (bing).

With his huge impact on modern China, it's almost impossible to avoid encountering the late Chairman Mao in some form or another while in Beijing. But for a Mao experience a little out of the ordinary, head to a small Islamic restaurant, the Laoxian Fanzhuang (20 Xinjiekou Nan Jie, Xicheng District, phone 010 6618 1748). The cumin-spiced lamb kebabs served here, popular across northern China, were reputedly his favourite. The restaurant still serves them, and sports a couch Mao used to sit on and a painting of the great one proudly on display.

While many visitors head to the Panjiayuan Dirt Market to look for antiques, the requisite Chairman Mao clocks and souvenirs, local Beijingers, knowing most of that stuff is fake, head to an old temple in Xuanwu District for the Baoguosi Market. Open every day, this market is almost the same size as Panjiayuan and the prices here for old books, toys, antiques, and Cultural Revolution relics are very reasonable. Guangan Dajie (northern end), Xuanwu District.

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