With such a wide range of cuisines, there are more eateries crammed into this city than you can poke a croquette at.
Amsterdam kitchens are notorious for closing early and it's no secret that "good service" here is almost non-existent. The good news is that Dutch food is seeing a revival. Bring this list with you at all times.
Brekkie, lunch and coffee
Breakfast is never eaten out socially by Dutchies. At regular cafes,
koffie is a short-ish black,
koffie verkeerd (coffee wrong) is a latte, and soy milk is not common.
Koffiesalon and Screaming Beans do the best coffee in town. Greendayz (Warmoesstraat 143) offers a decent organic brew. And Greenwoods (Singel 103; phone +31 20 623 7071) have cooked breakfast (mental note!). Round it all off with a visit to Bakkerswinkel for my fave sandwich planks and wicked cakes.
Small World and Singel 404 (Singel 404; phone +31 20 428 0154) do divine chunky sandwiches. and juices. The trek down south to Amsterdam Zuid is worth it purely for the absolute best croissants in town (and almost everything else) from French bakery Le Fournil de Sébastien. Otherwise in the centre of town, the French treats at Gebroeders Niemeijer are almost equally delectable. Grab apple pie and people watch at Winkel (Noordermarkt 43; phone +31 20 623 0223) and Latei where the entire interior filled with vintage wares, is for sale. The organic burgers (veggo also available) at Burgermeester are pure gold for a more pronounced hunger.
Gartine is a tiny salon in a laneway off the busy Kalverstraat that serves delectable food made with love from organic produce grown by the adorable owners. Make time (and stomach space) for their high tea.
Dutch food
Traditional Dutch food is heart clogging and best experienced on the street. Gobble raw herring whole at stands on bridges around town (especially during Spring), at
Noordermarkt and
Albert Cuypmarkt, where there's also fresh
stroopwafels (syrup waffles) on Saturdays. Leading up to New Year, carnival-like stands sell
oliebollen, which are like donuts, only without a hole. Get 'em hot.
Devour freshly cut frites (hot chips) with mayo at Wil Graanstra's (Westermarkt 11, phone +31 20 624 4071) or Vlaams Friteshuis (Voetboogstraat 33; phone +31 20 624 6075). Locals are fanatic about the croquettes and meat-on-meat sandwiches at retro Van Dobben (Korte Reguliersdwarsstraat 5; phone +31 20 624 4200). Kaaskamer (Runstraat 7; phone +31 20 623 3483) do killer cheese sandwiches, and Kaashandel Kef offers cheese tasting with wine (yumm). During the winter, the ice-cream stand called IJscuypje (Eerste van der Helststraat 27) switches wares to stamppot — sausage/meatballs with mash and veges.
For good Dutch restaurants without the tourist buses, try the home-style offerings at Keuken van 1870 and Bistro Bij Ons Ideal for big groups, Café Restaurant Amsterdam serves Dutch/French food in an old pumphouse building. Eenvistweevis (Schippersgracht 6; phone +31 20 623 2894) and Vis aan De Schelde both specialise in local seafood. Pancakes Amsterdam is a real treat after a long day of shopping, and Pannekoekenhuis Upstairs (Grimburgwal 2; phone +31 20 626 5603) is a one-man show located inside a tiny canal house.
For modern Dutch, Greetje is a must: traditional seasonal dishes are reinvented with a French twist. The interior is gorgeous and service is fantastic.
De Kas is definitely worth the splurge. Situated in a former dilapidated glasshouse, the kitchen now grows its own vegetables and herbs so it doesn't get much fresher. You're offered just one menu for lunch or dinner.
Brown cafes
The corner pubs of Amsterdam are amazing: old bars with rich timber interiors, velvet entry curtains and table rugs if you're lucky.
De Reiger (Nieuwe Leliestraat 34, phone +31 20 624 7426) in the Jordaan has a delicious seasonal Dutch-inspired menu, consistently good service and friendly staff.
For drinks, try Karpershoek (Martelaarsgracht 2; phone +31 20 624 7886, supposedly Amsterdam's second oldest bar), De Sluyswacht, or pick any in the Utrechtestraat or the Jordaan.
Onder de Ooievaar, Papeneiland, and Thijssen (Brouwersgracht 107; phone +31 20 623 8994) are favourites.
Beer is enjoyed everywhere in the ‘Dam however for those truly dedicated to the amber liquid, try the tiny side-alley bar Gollem (sample around 200 beers) but if you want to keep it truly local, head to cafe 't Arendsnest which serves only Dutch beers – 350 types with no less than 23 taps! For brandywine and liquer, Wynand Fockink is a treasured local distillery dating back to 1679.
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