Sri Lanka — the island of serendipity

Delightful small surprises abound: a monkey swinging through the trees as I breakfast, a hitch-hiking pair of Buddhist monks on the riverbank as my rubber raft floats by, a tiny turtle's head which pops from the courtyard pond in the luxury villa I'm staying in.

Every visit to Sri Lanka starts in Colombo, a thriving seaport for centuries, which retains the legacy of traders from Portugal, Britain and Holland. The most famous of the many elegant colonial seaside hotels is the Galle Face, established in 1864 and still a great place to sit with a cocktail on the veranda and watch the sun sink into the Indian Ocean. It is just one of the many luxurious accommodation options available to travellers around Sri Lanka, and has recently undergone a refurbishment including the addition of the new Regency Wing and the Serena Spa.

For a more intimate experience in Colombo, stay at Havelock Bungalow, an oasis of quiet and charm which is much like staying at a friend's home. The beautifully restored 1930s colonial bungalow has a sprawling garden with swimming pool, Jacuzzi and courtyard dining area, but is still on the doorstep of the city's best shopping, markets and restaurants.

Those who want to get away from the city should head to Villa Talangama, which overlooks the Talangama urban wetlands on the city fringe. From your balcony, you can watch teal, lily-walking jacanas, egrets and kingfishers. Water buffalo graze along the roadside.

On the palm-fringed west coast, between Colombo and Galle, there are still reminders of the devastation of the December 2004 tsunami, but Sri Lanka's many hotels and restaurants are open for business and offering the friendly service they are renowned for.

Inside the World Heritage-listed Galle Fort, which dates back to the 16th century Portuguese rule, Australians Karl Steinberg and Chris Ong have created the stunning 10-room Galle Fort Hotel from a once-derelict 17th century Dutch villa.

Nearby is the Light House Hotel, which overlooks the Indian Ocean and is bordered by a palm-fringed beach. Designed by Geoffrey Bawa, the hotel is a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World and Great Spa Hotels of the World.

Also in Galle is Apa Villa Illuketia, one of many plantation villas that dot the west coast. The 200-year-old Illuketia has been refurbished and boasts a huge lounge with nine traditional carved temple doors, lush gardens and six large guest rooms.

An hour's drive inland from Colombo — hire a driver who knows the idiosyncrasies of local roads, rules and drivers — is Rafters Retreat eco-lodge, set on the banks of the fast-flowing Kelani River, which was the setting for the 1957 movie Bridge on the River Kwai.

Owned by colourful wildlife celebrity Channa Perera, the retreat is a complex of 11 rammed-earth and timber tree-house-style chalets which can double as your private "hide" for bird and wildlife watching. Hand-made timber furniture adds to the rustic theme.

Locals and visitors flock here on weekends for white-water rafting. But on our weekday visit, the river is quiet and the urge to jump from the raft and float down a gentle stretch of the river is too hard to ignore. As I'm carried by the flowing water, a jewel-hued kingfisher swoops from an overhanging branch in a swift flash of colour.

Another few hours drive south, near Kalawana, the unique 10-suite Boulder Garden lodge is a good base for exploring the Sinharaja Forest Reserve, one of Sri Lanka's seven World Heritage sites. Boulder Garden is built within a steep range of hillside boulders surrounded by jungle and tea plantations. Dining under the overhanging rock is an experience few places can match.

Wherever you stay, personal touches abound. My favourite: the "goodnight" message spelt out in fern fronds on my bed at Boulder Garden. It is another small delight from the isle of serendipity.

Fact file

For more information on Sri Lanka, visit www.lanka.net or www.srilankatourism.org
Australians do not need a visa to visit Sri Lanka.