Maori culture is incredibly rich, and there are few more rewarding experiences in New Zealand than taking the time to learn about Maori history, crafts and traditions. It's possible to do this in various places across the country — especially on the North Island. Whether it's buying carvings, watching war dances or having a feast at a meeting house.

Waitangi, Bay of Islands, North Island

Waitangi is often regarded as the birthplace of the nation, and it was where the often controversial Treaty of Waitangi was first signed in 1840. In a nutshell, it gave Britain sovereignty over the nation, Maori chiefs retained the rights to their land and the Maori people had equal rights to with the pakeha (non-Maori) settlers. However, the wording was different in the English and Maori translations, so no-one can quite agree what was agreed to and this has caused all manner of legal problems and points of debate. Nevertheless, historic Waitangi is an excellent place for those wanting to learn more about Maori culture. Tours from a Maori perspective are available twice a day at the Waitangi National Reserve, as is the He Toho (cultural performance). This involves women dancing in formation and warriors performing the haka. On the lawn of the Treaty House (where the treaty was signed) is a meeting house with intricate carvings, and there is also a gigantic waka (war canoe) that was built for the centenary of the signing. It's 35m long and there are photographs showing how it was made from two huge kauri trees.
More information: www.waitangi.net.nz

Rotorua, Bay of Plenty, North Island

Rotorua is a bit of an action capital (think white water rafting, bungee jumps and all manner of other weird and wonderful ways to stain your underwear), but it's also a great spot for learning about Maori culture. A must-do while in town is a visit to the Tamaki Maori Village for dinner. The group is greeted by a traditional Maori challenge and some nose rubbing, before makes its way into the marae (meeting house). Then comes the feast — cooked in a hangi (traditional earth oven) — which is accompanied by traditional dances and songs. A briefing on guest protocol is given on the bus on the way there — it's a short drive from the city centre. Should you not want to venture that far, concerts are also held at the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village (www.whakarewarewa.com) every day. It's also possible to watch wood carvers at work here.
More information: www.maoriculture.co.nz

Wellington

The best place to learn about the Maori way of life and history is at New Zealand's National Museum, Te Papa. There's a huge trove of Maori artefacts on display with more than 30,000 in the collection. These taonga (as cultural treasures are known) include clothing, ancestral carvings and weapons, plus shells and bones that have been shaped into tools and ornaments.The history of the Maori people, including their early settlement of New Zealand, is explored in displays throughout the museum. It's an excellent way to learn about New Zealand culture prior to the Europeans arriving, and how it evolved over the centuries.The museum also has its own meeting house, which was specially created by Maori artists for Te Papa. On Wednesday nights, Te Papa hosts Taonga Mataora, a cultural performance evening combined with dinner. Starting off with cocktails and canapés, traditional dancers from Samoa and the Cook Islands complement the Maori show.
More information: www.tepapa.govt.nz

Cape Reinga, Northland, North Island

The far northern tip of New Zealand has huge significance to the Maori people. It's where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean, but more importantly, it is thought to be the point where the soul of the deceased leaves the mortal world and departs for the spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. More specifically, it is thought that it slides down the roots of the 800 year old pohutukawa tree that still stands there. In winter it can get rather chilly — and misty — at the cape, but it's one of those places where the atmosphere is actually improved by moody weather. Okay, so the views may not be as good, but stormy seas and gloomy skies enhance the feeling of being on sacred ground.
More information: Tours to Cape Reinga leave daily from Kaitaia, and there's a selection of companies that operate them, including Sand Safaris

Gisborne, East Coast, North Island

Another excellent place to learn about Maori history is the Tairawhiti Museum in Gisborne, Poverty Bay. It focuses on the Maori of the East Coast, but the main emphasis is on arts and crafts. Plenty of local artists are represented amongst rotating national and international exhibitions. It's also a great place to go shopping. Amongst the artefacts available to buy are gorgeous wooden bowls, bags, necklaces and pounamu (carved greenstone). There are also books and historic photographs of the area on offer. Whilst in Gisborne, it's also possible to visit the Te Poho-o-Rawiri meeting house, which is open to visitors unless official business is going on. Inside, it is chock full of carvings, which look much better in the correct setting than in a museum or on a mantelpiece.
More information: www.tairawhitimuseum.org.nz