Mexico City has undergone a remarkable transformation in the last decade. Once avoided because of its pollution and crime problems, today it's a cosmopolitan city of vibrant neighbourhoods, great dining and an explosive arts scene. No matter what you crave, you'll find it in Mexico City — you can shop for antiques and iconic Mexican design, ogle brilliant murals and architectural marvels, or simply soak up a bit of 21st-century decadence in a slinky rooftop bar.

Getting to know Mexico City's different colonias (neighbourhoods) is the best way to navigate the eclectic urban scene. Start at Centro Histórico, the Unesco-declared World Heritage site, which houses some of the city's most distinct landmarks and museums. The centrepiece of the area is the Zócalo, an enormous plaza overlooked by Mexico City's main cathedral and several imposing government buildings. The Palacio Nacional currently stands on the east side of the square, but the Aztec emperor Moctezuma II was actually the first to build a palace here. Cortes destroyed it in 1521 and rebuilt a fortress in its place — that too was destroyed in the riots of 1692 and later rebuilt. Today it houses the offices of the Mexican president, the treasury and some stunning Diego Rivera murals chronicling the birth of Mexican civilisation.

There are dozens of other museums, churches and historic sites to explore here, but one often-neglected gem is the Palacio Postal (Tacuba 1). This architectural masterpiece dates from the early 1900s and was designed in Italian Renaissance style by Adam Boari, who also designed the nearby Palacio Bellas Artes. Amazingly, the magnificently gilded and marble interior still houses a working post office. Purchase some old postcards from the vendors outside and head inside for a baroque stamp-buying experience.

A few blocks away is another architectural stunner, the Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles; Madero 4), a 16th-century mansion built for a Spanish nobleman. The blue-and-white-tiled Moorish facade is decorated in wild geometric patterns; inside there's an airy covered courtyard with a fountain and a colourful 1925 mural by José Clemente Orozco. The courtyard now functions as a restaurant. It's a particularly pleasant way to enjoy your coffee and huevos rancheros (eggs).

If you feel the need to dodge the chaos of the city for a bit, head to the Chapultepec — 1600 acres of lush greenery, old forest, lakes, zoo, outdoor cafes and top-notch museums. Once revived, go to the Galería Mexicana Diseño (Anatole France 13), a handsome store specialising in contemporary Mexican and international design.

For a wider, younger range of boutiques and a good slew of cafes, bars and restaurants, go to Condesa and neighbouring Roma. Here you'll find tree-lined avenues lined with a mix of fin-de-siècle and art-deco buildings. This is prime strolling and people-watching territory; Roma has a particularly diverse mix. Get a taste of Mexico's booming contemporary art scene at the gallery www.arte-mexico.com).

In Roma, you'll also be well placed to sample some excellent cuisine. A few blocks west of OMR is Ixchel (Medellin 65), one of the trailblazers of Roma's renaissance when it opened in 1994. The upstairs restaurant serves excellent fusion fare, while a downstairs lounge and terrace bar make for atmospheric lingering before or after a meal.

As night falls, your choice of watering holes skyrockets. Condesa, with its ever-thriving bar scene, is a good place to start. Condesa df (Veracruz 102), a fairly new boutique hotel set in a converted 1928 apartment building, has several cosy drinking nooks, including a roof terrace with views of the lush Parque España, which faces the hotel. For a more old-school vibe, head back to the Centro Histórico and amble up to El Nivel (Moneda 2), a cantina that's been liquoring up the locals since 1855. Ice-cold Victoria beer and smooth-as-fire tequila (make sure it's made from 100 percent agave) flow amid the old photographs and 1950s decor. Finish the night off at La Opera (Cinco de Mayo 10), an opulent 1900s spot with red booths, gilt accents and a hole in the ceiling, reputedly made by famous revolutionary Pancho Villa after his arrival in 1910.

Originally published by Lonely Planet.