wining and dining

Drinking guide to Marlborough, NZ

Jane E Fraser
Vineyard, Marlborough (Photo: AAP).
"Wither Hills is also a top place to line your stomach — they dish up five-star food, in front of a huge fireplace in winter."
Jane E Fraser

I've made a pretty decent contribution to the economy of the Marlborough region over the past decade or so. Many a bottle of Marlborough sauv blanc or pinot noir has passed through my wine rack or made its way into my esky (or shall we say chilli bin, now that we're talking Kiwi?).

So it seemed only fair that the Marlborough wineries should return the favour by showing me what they had to offer 'in person'.

After dedicated and entirely selfless research on my part, here's a guide to some of the best in the region.

First things first

Unless you're teetotal, in which case I'm not sure why you came, do not attempt to self-drive your way around the wineries. They're generous with their tastings and there are more than 50 cellar doors to choose from; you could possibly blow 0.05 just by breathing the air here.

There are plenty of tour operators that cater for individuals or groups. We used Sounds Connection, which does small group tours for very reasonable prices — about $50 per person for half a day or $75 for a full day, including any tasting fees.

They don't hold your hand or drone on for hours, they just get you from winery to winery and give you a few useful tips along the way.

Wither Hills

Start in style at Wither Hills, where they've spent megabucks on their cellar door and restaurant. It's not one of the better-known brands in Australia, despite the fact they export about a fifth of their production to the land of Oz, and it's well worth a visit.

They focus on four main varieties here, being sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, chardonnay and pinot noir, but turn out the odd few cases of viognier, riesling and other drops.

If you're a sauv blanc drinker (and I really hope you are), the standard Wither Hills is very drinkable at about $15 a bottle, but it's worth paying another five bucks or so for the Rarangi, a single vineyard release that is just so good.

Wither Hills is also a top place to line your stomach — they dish up five-star food, in front of a huge fireplace in winter.

Cloudy Bay

You've almost certainly heard of this one, which is one of the better-known names in Australia. at Cloudy Bay has a pretty speccy setting, with inky-blue mountains forming a backdrop to the changing colours of the vineyards, and again they've spent up big on the wine-tasting area.

One of the big things here is the Pelorus NV sparkling ... Oh, okay, if I must! It accounts for about a fifth of their production and is worth every bit of its $27 a bottle.

Also try the Te Koko, which the chatty soul at the cellar door says is an alternative style of sauv blanc. It's very smooth, but then again it ought to be at about $40 a bottle.

Mahi

This is my favourite, partly because the wines are just so damn good and partly because they have a big focus on organic and biodynamic processes (the latter no doubt a big part of the reason for the former). Winemaker and owner Brian Bicknell is a real character, too, if he happens to be around when you visit.

Mahi is one of the furthest west vineyards and therefore has an even cooler climate than other Marlborough wineries, producing really fresh and citrusy sauv blancs as well as chardonnay that could win over many of those who say they don't drink it.

Mahi also produces excellent gewurztraminer (you'll find this variety on the list at quite a few Marlborough wineries), pinot gris and pinot noir.

Hunter's Wines

This winery is much celebrated within New Zealand — so let me just mention that it's run by an Aussie. Jane Hunter has been running the place single-handedly since her husband Ernie was killed in a road accident in 1987 and has come to be known as the "first lady" of New Zealand wine.

Hunter's was one of the early exporters of Kiwi wine and the winery has evolved to include a cellar door, cafe, extensive native gardens and an artist's studio with resident artist.

If your tastebuds are losing their touch after all those different drops, the non-vintage Miru Miru bubbly (they like to use Maori names here) will perk them back up. Make sure you also try the gewurztraminer, which is dry but very soft and would go so well with Asian food.

After wine, comes ...

It would be remiss of me not to mention that there's a chocolate factory just up the road from Hunter's.

Makana, just outside Blenheim, makes handmade truffles, chocolate-dipped fruit, jellies, nut brittle and all sorts of other yummies that are great for gifts, although they probably won't make it that far.

The basics

Where: The Marlborough region is in the north-east corner of New Zealand's South Island, about 20 minutes from the waterfront town of Picton. (Don't stay in Blenheim, it's dull.)

Getting there: Choose between a three-hour ferry ride from Wellington or a four-hour car trip from Christchurch. Either way, Pacific Blue has plenty of cheap fares from Australia.

Where to stay: The recently refurbished Mercure Picton Marlborough Sounds is an easy choice — right by the water, modern and cheap (so you can spend more on wine). It also has a surprisingly good restaurant, punching well above its weight for hotel nosh.

What about red?

The Marlborough region is known around the world for its sauvignon blanc, but what if you prefer the red stuff?

If you're into heavy, earthy reds, you're not going to find a lot of joy here.

But do give the pinot noirs a go, because some of them have a lot of character. They generally don't chill it — it's probably cold enough most of the year! — and it goes mighty well with New Zealand lamb.

My pick? The Mahi 2008 pinot noir (about $24 a bottle).

advertisement
WORST THINGS ABOUT FLYING
From screaming babies to loud drunks — these are the most annoying things about flying.
 
<i>Dictator</i> travel: Where to find the real palace of Sacha Baron Cohen's General AladeenDictator travel: Where to find the real palace of Sacha Baron Cohen's General Aladeen
May 21 2012 2:45PM
So you enjoyed getting oppressed by Sacha Baron Cohen's General Aladeen in his new film The Dictator? Why not take the tourist trail to the fictional bearded ruler's real-life digs?
Read full story