A different skiing holiday in Japan

It's midday on the top peak of Shiga Kōgen, the highest ski resort in all of Japan, and there's not another human in sight. The school groups who had earlier peppered the slopes have disappeared for lunch. As befits my amateur status, I'm sticking to easy pow, but tougher runs nearby are entirely deserted, with waist-deep untouched snow off-piste. With no queues for the lift, sun shining on my face and last night's heavy dump of snow staring me down, I feel like I've attained ski nirvana.

The bogan's share of Aussies bound for Japanese snow visit Niseko and Hakuba; the paths to both are well-trodden and the locals are used to our wants, needs and occasionally uncouth behaviour. In particular, there's an après-ski drinking culture — something locals-only ski fields overlook. But if encountering a plethora of 'strayan accents in a country as fascinating as Japan seems like a waste, don't worry. For those prepared to work just a little harder, great powder, uncrowded slopes and a distinctly Japanese feel are just a bit further afield. And one of the best is Shiga Kōgen, host of the 1998 Winter Olympics (Read more: Ten things to know about skiing in Japan).

Straying off the well-trodden path might seem a risk, due to concerns about language and violations of Japan's tricky customs. But just 20 minutes from Shiga Kōgen, in the onsen (hot spring) town of Yudanaka, a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) is making life easy for people who want to ski while engaging with local culture.

Ryokan Biyu no Yado has several English-speakers on staff. Chief among these is Yukiko Saisu, the hotel's managing director, who lived in Hawaii for 20 years. Yukiko has made it her mission to introduce foreign guests to the genuine ryokan experience of communal bathing, cosy futons and intricate, delicious meals.

Then there's Craig Shaw, a friendly Kiwi who's lived in Japan for 16 years and works at the hotel with his wife. During our stay, Craig (who also runs Snow Monkey Japan, a website about the local area) drove us to the mountains, took us to a sake brewery, rescued us from skiing disasters and showed us a tourist-free fire festival at the town's river. His local knowledge and sense of humour make him an ideal guide to the area.

The constant presence of helpful English-speaking staff means those unsure about tackling a ryokan can feel at ease. The hotel is kid-friendly and fussy eaters can be catered for. If you're embarrassed about getting nude in front of a bunch of locals, a premium room comes with a private onsen, and there's a tub on the roof that can be booked for a small fee.

So how're the slopes? A pair of experienced Australian snowboarders who I met on the mountain reckoned Shiga Kōgen was like another world. There are runs for skiers of all levels — 68 in total — and you won't get your lift pass taken away for going off-piste. That said, before you stray off the course make sure to ask a local for advice, as there are several areas where you could get into severe trouble.

If you're visiting with family, or your skiing skills aren't quite up to scratch, the Yokoteyama area of Shiga Kégen is ideal, with its gently sloping bunny hill. There's also a bakery on top of this mountain that serves incredible hot dogs and borscht. But for better skiers the most popular areas are Ichinose (which has a few options for after-ski beers) and Yakebitaiyama.

There are numerous accommodation options at Shiga Kōgen itself (including Biyu no Yado's sister hotel, the Shiga Palace). It's quiet in the evening, but that's the point; settle into your ryokan, eat a delicious dinner of several courses, have a few beers, then head to the bathing area and soak up the heat in a rotenburo (outdoor hot spring bath) with snowflakes melting in your hair. And wake up refreshed for another day of pow wow.

The onsen water at Biyu no Yado is a particular attraction for Japanese guests. Unlike many ryokans, Biyu doesn't mix volcanic water from the spring with regular water to cool it down. Instead, the volcanic water runs against a steel plate that has chilled water from the town's river running on the other side. This means the various minerals and ions in the water aren't diluted — it's widely believed in Japan that these deliver substantial benefits to your health.

After more than just bathing and boarding? Jigokudani, the 'snow monkey park', is just out of town. It's a world-class tourist attraction and in winter the park's hot spring is usually full of monkeys (Japanese macaques, to be precise) — you can get up close as the heat tempers their aggressive behaviour (read more about snow monkeys here.)

At the nearby Uotoshi Ryokan, English-speaking owner Kazuhisa Miyasaka demonstrates Japanese archery, or Kyūdō. Kyūdō demands clarity of thought and freedom from distractions. The elaborate ritual that accompanies the firing of each arrow is designed to clear the mind. If you're a real archery enthusiast, or just want to stay at a small, family-run inn, book a room here.

Sleeping, eating and bathing at a ryokan are deeply relaxing experiences, and you'll learn a lot about Japan's take on life and leisure from a stay. For Australians who want a deeper engagement with one of the world's most unique cultures (especially family travellers), discover a new style of R&R by pushing just a little out of your comfort zone, and leave the 'Oi! Oi! Oi!' lot until the flight home.

Need to know

Ryokan Biyu no Yado is located one minute from Yudanaka station by car and around 20 minutes from Shiga Kōgen. The hotel runs free buses and can also organise ski rental, lessons and lift tickets. Lifts are open from mid-November to May.

Craig Shaw's website Snow Monkey Japan contains detailed information on the local area.

Shaun Davies is ninemsn Travel's Tokyo Insider. He stayed courtesy of Ryokan Biyu no Yado.