Nicholas Stewart rediscovers the charm of Sydney's second-most-famous beach suburb: Manly.
It's a strange experience returning as an adult to a place I visited every weekend for so many years as a teen. Apart from the now upmarket eating and drinking venues that populate Manly Wharf and the streets surrounding The Corso, not that much has changed. Those venues wouldn't have caught my eye 15 years ago when I was a young grommet getting off the bus with hopes of perfect six-foot waves. However, it's as an adult that I come to Manly with my partner for a Sydney stay-cation on this hot, overcast weekend. What we're about to embark on is very grown-up indeed.
As inner-city dwellers, it's only appropriate that we travel to Manly on the ferry. Departing from Circular Quay approximately every 20 minutes on weekends, the Manly ferry takes 30 minutes to sail you from CBD hustle and bustle to what could be any popular beachside suburb on Australia's beautiful coastline. Be prepared to travel in company, though — Manly is a family destination and a weekend of fine weather will bring the crowds en masse to Sydney's second-most-famous beach.
As we disembark at Manly Wharf, I'm still trying to work out how this metropolis fits together. The ferry has taken us past so many North Shore waterside suburbs without the benefit of street signs to tell us what suburb we're "in". I forget my geographical conundrum as I concentrate on making it through the crowds as we spill onto the wider wharf. I'm immediately struck by what's changed.
On the left, Hugo's Manly sits in all its glory, taking up a large part of the wharf and exploiting its position with views over Manly Cove. Similarly, the Bavarian Beer Cafe lies adjacent to Hugo's, serving up its European menu to those who have chosen to forgo Hugo's pizzas for lunch. Adding to the already impressive line-up of quality dining options, Manly Wharf Hotel offers bistro-style food to suit the view. For those who don't want a proper lunch, Max Brenner and Laurent Boulangerie Patisserie are well-placed for a casual snack.
Further up The Corso Darley Street seems to be the deli/cafe strip with several eateries serving up gourmet and organic produce. But it's InSitu on Sydney Road that wins us over for a quiet lunch in its green, tropical courtyard before we make our way to our hotel for the weekend — the Novotel Sydney Manly Pacific. As we walk up North Steyne and approach the place, I find myself reminiscing again, thinking back to New Year's Eve in 1995 when I shared dinner with a girlfriend and her family at the then Manly Pacific. The hotel's flashier now, with its rendered exterior painted with fresh dark-grey paint and fitted out with Charlie Bar, downstairs, and the afternoon/evening venue "Sable" (French for 'sand'), upstairs.
I'm grateful to get into our room, look through the glass doors on the balcony and see the water behind those famous pines that line Manly Beach. It's a fine view from above, and the sounds of people laughing and enjoying their Saturday is relaxing in itself.
We had planned a trip to Oceanworld Manly and my partner reminds me to get a move on. A short stroll away, Oceanworld overlooks Manly Cove and faces the wharf. Upon entering, I'm consumed by the marine life before me, but suspect this place would be better enjoyed through the eyes of a child. Nevertheless, I strive to learn what I can about the creatures swimming in the massive tanks. The sight of cuttlefish using their lateral fins combined with jet propulsion to glide through the water reminds me of their graceful nature and prompts me to swear never to eat one again.
When I explore Sydney, I try to meet up with a friend who lives in the area I'm visiting. Manly is no exception so we leave Oceanworld to meet Jason, our would-be local guide, and head to Manly Wine. Formerly Will & Toby's Manly, Manly Wine exudes confidence and class. Facing the beach, at the quiet end of South Steyne, we sit at a table on the footpath, admiring groomed canines as they wait patiently while their owners sip cocktails. The place is packed and shows obvious signs of its familial connection to the mothership, Gazebo Wine Garden in Potts Point.
While I'm proud to be drinking Australian wine and therefore not negatively affecting Australia's balance of trade, my Victorian Sangiovese is acidic and sharp. However, this is easily ignored in this atmosphere; nothing beats good conversation with friends over a drink in such an environment.
It's 6pm and Manly is transforming into its other self, a night destination for locals of the Northern Beaches. There's one more drinking venue we want to check out, so we leave the glamour of Manly Wine and walk back to our hotel and on to Sable on the second level; open from 12pm until 2am on Friday and Saturday nights. It's a large, dark-walled space contrasted by an open-roof wraparound terrace overlooking the beach. The bar's lavish environs make it the perfect place to sit on a couch, sip on some Bollinger and admire the view as twilight sets in.
A seafood buffet dinner awaits us in Zali's Restaurant — fresh bugs, tiger prawns, blue swimmer crabs, mussels, Sydney Rock oysters and a range of non-seafood hot and cold dishes fill out the spread. Chefs at the open kitchen watch over raw fish on ice and take orders from customers — I order two pieces of salmon, to be grilled. Manly is a place you expect to eat fish and chips, and we've gone several steps further here at Zali's (sans chips).
It's still not dark on this gorgeous summer night and it feels like a stroll on the beach is the right thing to do. The water's calm and looks almost purple as it reflects the hazy orange sky. But it's not just the water that catches our eyes; the real estate along Manly Beach is stunning. Homeowners have pumped millions into their dwellings to exploit the fantastic vista, and the architecture, unlike many other Sydney beachside suburbs, works with the landscape — browns and soft yellows are used with glass to stellar effect. So we walk up to Queenscliff and back as night sets in and arrive back at our hotel room thoroughly exhausted.
We leave the balcony screen door open and go to sleep listening to the sounds of waves crashing onto the shore. This is bliss, and the sirens and strife of Sydney life seem hours away. Nothing like a stay-cation to remind you why you love calling your city home.
Nicholas Stewart was a guest of Novotel Sydney Manly Pacific.
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