Surf Highway 45 takes in New Zealand’s North Island best-of beaches to hit with your board.

The US may have Route 66, but only New Zealand can boast Surf Highway 45. Hugging the coastline between New Plymouth and Hawera on the North Island's rugged west coast, Surf Highway 45 may only be 105km, but it punches above its weight. Encompassing a dormant volcano, lonely black sand beaches and a plethora of quirky cafés, you don't have to be a surfie to enjoy New Zealand's very own wild west.

New Plymouth

The Surf Highway starts at New Plymouth, the main city in the Taranaki district. Brimming with overpriced bistros on Devon Street, aptly-named "eat street", locals seem determined to shake off New Plymouth's stodgy, provincial roots and reinvent their town as an arts centre.

On the waterfront is Pure Ariki, a striking new museum, visitor centre and exhibition space, and you can't miss the Windwand, a bizarre 45m tall red column, flexible enough to bend 20m in any direction. A WOMAD music festival is regularly held here, and locals still boast about their Tom Cruise sightings during the filming of The Last Samurai.

Once a meat and three veg stronghold, New Plymouth has embraced gourmet goodies. Cheese aficionados should visit the brand new Okato Cheese Factory for some cumin and pepper club cheese, or pick up basil and ginger jelly from Q Gardens providores. And it would be negligent not to visit White Cliffs Brewery to sample their organic Mountain Lager.

Walking and skiing

Every good road trip warrants a detour, and they don't come more imposing than Mt Taranaki, an extinct volcano. Mt Taranaki is part of the North Island's volcanic fault line. But it's the Maori legend that will capture your imagination — Taranaki fled to the sea with a broken heart, the mountain’s tears thus carving the Whanganui River.

Bearing an uncanny resemblance to Mt Fuji, this was the apt backdrop for The Last Samurai . But bagging a peek at the summit requires the patience of a trainspotter, as it's usually swathed in masses of long white cloud.

If the weather is holding up, you can tramp (Kiwi-speak for ‘hike’) some short trails through rimu forest at the base. But it's not worth attempting longer trails in winter, as they are usually too boggy. If you're a skier, swap your walking boots for skies and take in a few runs at unpretentious Manganui ski field.

Healing waters

After a day's skiing or walking, swing back to Surf Highway 45 to soak in the Taranaki Mineral Pools. Built in 1945, this small but elegant spa house fell into disrepair, but has been restored to its former glory. The luxurious menu of spa treatments uses artesian alkaline waters found 1km underneath Mt Taranaki.

Warm your bones in winter with a plunge into a private spa pool, and pick up a bottle or two of the nutrient-rich mineral water.

Swells

Back on the road, traffic becomes sparse south of New Plymouth. Taranaki's semi-circular coastline collects 180 degrees of ocean swells, so surf is guaranteed to be pumping somewhere along Surf Highway 45. If you're an experienced surfer, and don't mind chilly conditions, it's worth braving it. Equipment is available for hire in both New Plymouth and Oakura.

Conditions vary greatly, so for the best surf follow the gaggle of cars parked on headlands. These are windy, black sand beaches, and for those who enjoy a bit of atmosphere with their surf some highlights along this stretch are:

Oakura Beach — featuring sand that looks like it's been blasted with a black metallic paint gun, this is a favourite haunt for both locals and tourists. It boasts several eateries, including Green Ginger, Snickerdoodles and Café Wunderbar.

Ahu Ahu — another popular break, Ahu Ahu is for those who love long, wintry walks. Rustic Ahu Ahu Villas are tucked away on an isolated cliff top, an inspiring place from which to watch storms roll in.

Stent Road — picking up swells from the north and west, Stent Road is only worth a look if you are a die-hard surfer. As far as beaches go, it wouldn't win awards for looks, which suits the local surfies just fine.

Opunake — Surf Highway 45's most picturesque beach is nestled below a rocky outcrop, and when conditions are right can have superb breaks. While you're there, drop in to Sugar Juice Café and sink into a comfy chair with a hot chocolate in hand.

Dairy country

The road continues south to Hawera, and as the swell dies the highway follows beautiful scenery inland past rolling green hills flecked with sheep and cattle. Despite a revamped town centre and a couple of interesting eateries, Hawera remains a service town for the meat processing and dairy industries, but is not without its own hidden gems. Take the Elvis Presley Museum for instance! Set up by Elvis worshipper Kevin Wasley, there is a cornucopia of Elvis memorabilia and records on display. Ring Kevin for opening hours.

Surf Highway 45 ends at Hawera, but from here you are perfectly placed to swing south for a spot of culture in windy Wellington, or spear southeast and hit the ski slopes at Mt Ruapehu.

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