It all begins at the Alice Springs Telegraph Station and climbs abruptly to the ridges and dramatic slopes of the range, with unbeatable views of the desert floor and its winding dry river systems. It finishes with a six-hour steady climb to the summit of Mt Sonder.

In between, walkers traverse some of the most dramatic sites the West MacDonnell Ranges has to offer including, Simpsons Gap, Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine Gorge, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge and Glen Helen. By the way, you can read an account of my own assault on Mt Sonder with journalist friend Tony Davis (the author of the article) on the Sydney Morning Herald website.

A couple of words of warning are pertinent. Planning is essential, as is a good level of fitness. This is a challenging walk (especially if you are aiming to do the whole thing) on which you will have to carry much of your own water and restock supplies at food drops along the way. And think twice if you were planning on getting fit along the route. Walkers must be well equipped and well prepared. It is recommended to register with the Overnight Walker Registration Scheme. Having said all that, it is also one of the best trekking experiences you're ever likely to have.

If you are not up for planning the walk yourself, why not go with a professional guide. A number of companies run organised treks including Trek Larapinta, Walking Country and World Expeditions. Also, if you are after gear — or just local tips and advice — drop in for a chat to the guys at Lone Dingo. They have a wealth of experience in the area and are familiar with the ups and downs of the Larapinta Trail.

Once you are aloft you won't believe how much you can see — from kangaroos to cattle stations — as the remote desert opens its secrets before you. It's a mind-blowing thrill. And there's breakfast (with champagne) waiting for you after you land. Just don't be surprised if you are asked to help pack away the balloon. A 60-minute flight with breakfast will cost you $385. If that's too much, take a 30-minute flight, also including breakfast, for $275. It is expensive, but worth it. And children aged six to 16 get a hefty discount.

Best to contact the camel man Marcus Williams at Pyndan Camel Tracks who is open seven days a week and can do pick up from your accommodation. One-hour camel rides are available daily, as well as half-day rides and tailor-made tours. And if you think you might have seen one of Marcus' camels before, you might well have. Some of them starred in the TV series The Alice.

From the air, you get a clearer picture of the unique geology from which this landscape is constructed. The West MacDonnell Ranges wind back and forth across the plains under you like some ancient spinal column, the jagged peaks looking for all the world like the scales of a gigantic dinosaur.

Alice Springs helicopters run joy flights to a number of scenic destinations around Alice Springs and further afield (you can go a long way in a helicopter in a very short time) and even offer a Champagne Sunset flight. They also offer Heli-safaris, and a charter service for the likes of film crews and photographers. A 15-minute flight will cost you about $150 per person including insurance. A half-day charter — in which you and three friends could take in Uluru (450km to the south) and all points en route — will set you back a princely $5800 per charter.

Believe me, belting along on a quad bike over a sandy desert track is more fun than you can believe until you've tried it! Outback Quad Adventures runs half-day, full-day and corporate rides across Undoolya Station, which has been operating since the 1800s. This company has exclusive rights to operate quad bikes on the station, which is the oldest working cattle station in the Northern Territory.

The Quad Rush tour takes 2.5 hours and will give you 1.5 hours on the quad bike, all for $120 per person. Remember, children between the ages of 12 and 17 must be accompanied on the tour by a parent or guardian. Longer and overnight tours are available.