Alice Springs town camps
There are 19 legally established town camps in
Alice Springs and a further two camps without leases. These are small communities of Aboriginal people who share language or geographical origins. Originally they were a mixture of temporary visitor accommodation and traditional camping areas, mostly on the fringe of the town itself. But many living on the camps have always considered themselves long-term permanent residents. Estimates of the population of Alice Springs town camps varies and numbers go up and down, but it is generally thought to be between 2000 and 3000 people.
All the camps have historically suffered from poor infrastructure and a lack of services. Conditions on the camps vary from poor to downright shameful. Despite laws prohibiting drinking on town camps, the drinking continues and violence often follows. Yet families struggle to shape lives under these appalling conditions.
Under no circumstances should you visit a town camp. Permissions are required and you cannot simply wander in. If you are invited to go to one I would politely decline unless you are accompanied by someone in authority, say from Tangentyere Council or the town council. Also, many of the camps are now subject to extensive reconstruction under the federal and Northern Territory governments' SIHIP program, which is attempting to bring standards in the camps up to the same level enjoyed by the rest of Alice Springs. As construction sites, those affected are not safe to enter unsupervised.
Travel to remote communities
Alice Springs is the service centre for some 260 communities in Central Australia, including some in South Australia and Western Australia. Roughly 12,000 Aboriginal people and a handful of non-indigenous folk, or some 30 percent of the regional population, live in remote communities that lack adequate access to a range of services. Living conditions on these communities can be a shock to some. Yet often they are to be found in magnificent desert locations and to many they have been a source of inspiration.
Increasingly, they are being brought into the 21st century and many offer unique experiences such as art galleries and insights into desert cultural traditions. Contact Tourism Central Australia for more information and the Central Land Council to find out what permits you might need for travelling on Aboriginal land.
Aboriginal art
The contemporary Aboriginal art movement was born in Central Australia, which is now home to a diverse and thriving art industry. The town of Alice Springs itself is a hive of art galleries, which display the work of artists who live and work in the region. It's better to buy art in
Alice Springs or at community art centres. Avoid buying Aboriginal art from dodgy backyard dealers and carpet-baggers. Buy from respected dealers such as
Papunya-Tula artists,
Gondwana Gallery and the
CAAMA shop (all on Todd Mall), or the
Aboriginal Australia Arts and Culture Centre, who direct proceeds back to Aboriginal artists and communities.
Safety on the streets
Like any major town in the world, trouble is here to be found if you go looking for it. But abiding by some sensible road rules and normal codes of polite behaviour will mean you have a safe and trouble-free visit. Despite what some websites would lead you to believe, interracial violence is not common and the warnings can be overstated. However, it pays to be careful. And it is not sensible for women to walk alone at night. Walk in groups if you have to, or get a taxi back to your accommodation. Mounted police patrol the
Todd Mall and the town council has taken to hiring private security guards to patrol the commercial centre. Take a "turn the other cheek" attitude to conflict if it comes your way, and look out for friends who have had too much to drink.
Water
Take enough water with you when you are walking and especially when you're going bush. It's said that a physically active person needs to drink at least four litres of water a day in the desert.
Driving in the desert
If you are want to go four-wheel driving, and it's your first time, get some lessons. Jol Fleming runs a terrific course at
Direct 4WD. Don't attempt any four-wheel driving above your experience and abilities. People regularly die in fatal roll-overs or get lost, "never to be seen again". And always tell someone your travel plans in advance, including to where and when you intend to return.
If you break down, stay near your car. Central Australian roads are not as lonely as you might think. Someone will be along soon. Flag them down and get some help. If they're locals, they'll probably stop anyway.
Got any more places to avoid? Have your say using the comments form below.
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