You may well have done the Rock, marvelled at the Reef and climbed Sydney Harbour Bridge, but until you've discovered Kangaroo Island there's a gap in your experience of the best of Australia. Located just 16km off the tip of the Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia, KI — as the island is affectionately known — offers air that's been scrubbed pure by the Southern Ocean, easy access to native wildlife and spectacular forms of nature.
With more than one-third of the island under national park protection, the wildlife is remarkably accessible and it's one of the few places in the country to spot koalas relaxing in treetops along the roadside. Expect to encounter kangaroos, wallabies, goannas, echidnas, possums and platypuses and a brilliant profusion of birdlife. Along the coast, you may also spot dolphins surfing the waves, sea lions and New Zealand fur seals enjoying the sunshine.
Getting there
Access to Kangaroo Island is simple. You can fly, or opt to drive and take the ferry. There are also coach tours available from Adelaide. Be sure to give yourself plenty of time as the island is some 155km long and 55km wide, and the beaches and azure waters will have you mesmerised.
By ferry: It's a 45-minute, high-speed trip from Cape Jervis on the mainland. For more information, ph: 131301. Go to
www.sealink.com.au. The website also details tour options.
By air: It's a scenic 35-minute flight from Adelaide to Kingscote.
Indigenous Australians are believed to have lived on KI for some 20,000 years, at a time when Kangaroo Island was still attached to the mainland. Matthew Flinders was one of the first Europeans to set foot in 1802. Australia's first "free settler colony" was established in 1836 on Reeves Point but, bedevilled by water and timber supply problems, it lasted only a few years.
Today, about 4000 people call KI home. Some of them are descendants of the WWII veterans granted land parcels of 500 hectares for cultivation. Many are involved in tourism and if you opt for a coach tour, you're very likely to have a local as your guide. Be sure to visit Kingscote. Its restaurants and cafes specialise in local gourmet fare.
FACT FILE
- American River is not a river, but an inlet and settlement on the north-east of KI. It is named after an American, Isaac Pendleton, who spent a winter on Kangaroo Island in 1803 building a schooner and amassing a fortune through the slaughter of seals. Once the news of their success leaked, hundreds of whalers and sealers arrived to try their luck. Today, all the seals and sea lions around Kangaroo Island have conservation protection.
- Penneshaw is the point where most visitors arrive by ferry from the mainland. Visit the Penguin Centre where a colony of some 2000 fairy penguins is located.
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PERFECT TIMING
- November to April is the optimal time for scuba diving and snorkelling. There is a high chance of encountering dolphins during your dives. You will discover seals and many of the 270 fish species such as the rare and delicate leafy sea dragon. Crayfish season runs from November to May and there's always a chance of catching abalone — 13cm minimum legal length and a maximum of 10 per boat. There's snapper, whiting, school shark and even tuna in winter for fishers who are dedicated to the task. Four world-record tuna catches have come from the waters around Vivonne Bay.
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When marine scientist Professor Andy Short of Sydney University selected Kangaroo Island's Vivonne Bay as the "best beach" in Australia. He picked the bay for the clarity of its water, its sand, headlands and unspoilt location after inspecting thousands of beaches around Australia. Other beautiful beaches are Stokes Bay and Snelling Beach, while Hanson Bay has a wildlife sanctuary where you can take nocturnal tours.
Your KI experience can be as active or relaxed as you desire. If your idea of escape is really to enjoy nature, opportunities abound for bushwalking, yachting, scuba diving, birdwatching, swimming, sandboarding and 4WD tours.
The undisputed stars of KI wildlife are the sea lions which can be found most days lounging around on the beach at Seal Bay Aquatic Reserve. The sea lions were hunted to near extinction in the 19th century and the large colony at Seal Bay can only be visited in the company of a guide. Seal pups can often be spotted playing in the surf.
Must see it … must do it
Quite remarkable: The Flinders Chase National Park, at 32,000 hectares, is the largest on the island. Photograph the Remarkable Rocks in all their moods at different times of the day. The rocks stand on an impressive bed of granite high above the sea. New Zealand fur seals occupy the nearby rock formation of Admiral's Arch.
Lions up close: Seal Bay Aquatic Reserve is roughly an hour's drive from Kingscote. Take the tour along the beach amongst wild Australian sea lions. With a ranger as your guide, you can walk within 10 metres of the sea lions — depending on their behaviour.
Lighten up: Sleep in the lighthouse keeper's cottages at Cape Du Couedic, Cape Willoughby or Cape Borda lightstations. A sense of the isolation of the lighthouse keeper's life is evident at the small graveyard at Cape Borda, the resting place of 16 keepers and their families. The Weirs Cove area in Flinders Chase is protected under the Aboriginal Heritage Act.
Cave dwelling: Kelly Hill Conservation Park sits on the south coast of Kangaroo Island. Together with the adjoining Cape Bouguer Wilderness Protection Area, it's more than 7000 hectares and contains an extensive limestone cave system, a rich diversity of bushland and an abundance of wildlife. Take a tour of the Kelly Hill Caves. They contain an impressive arrangement of straws, stalactites, stalagmites and helictites. You can also energise with a 9km walk through bush and wetlands to the coast.
Slippery dip: Head for Little Sahara near Vivonne Bay and you'll find spectacular snow-white sand dunes. You can climb to the top of the ridges, grab a sandboard and take the ride of your life to the bottom of the dune.
Scrumptious: After a big dose of fresh air and exercise, look forward to some gourmet produce at just about any restaurant or hotel at Kingscote and Penneshaw, the main centres on Kangaroo Island.
Scent-ual pleasures: Even if you don't feel a sniffle coming on, a visit to the aromatic Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery will leave your head feeling clear and de-cluttered! You can watch the making of traditional bush products. For more information, go to www.emuridge.com.au. And for another "scentual" experience, visit Emu Bay Lavender.
More please!
When you visit Kangaroo Island bring a hearty appetite because you'll be in foodie heaven. These are just some of the island's gourmet producers. For more specialist producers and stores that stock a full range of local delicacies, go to www.goodfoodkangarooisland.com.
Andermel Marron Farm: Visitors can taste marron, while sipping a glass of Two Wheeler Creek wine. Ph: (08) 8559 4128. Go to www.andermel.com.au.
Bay of Shoals Winery: With spectacular views of the Bay of Shoals, this winery provides tastings and cellar-door sales. Ph: (08) 8553 0289. Go to www.bayofshoalswines.com.au.
Clifford's Honey Farm: Visitors to Clifford's learn about bee-handling and honey making. At the farm's shop, you can purchase hand-made, all-natural honey ice-cream. Ph: (08) 8553 8295.
Hog Bay Apiary: Honey, honey and more delicious honey! Ph: (08) 8553 1237. Go to www.users.on.net/hogbay.
Island Beehive: Join a guided tour and watch the bees at work in a glass hive, then taste unique Ligurian honey. Go to www.island-beehive.com.au.
Island Indulgence Tour: To really sample and enjoy the full range of gourmet produce that Kangaroo Island has to offer, grab a copy of the Kangaroo Island Food and Wine Guide and indulge your way around the island! For more information go to www.tourkangarooisland.com.au.
Island Pure Sheep Dairy: This unique dairy is home to 1100 sheep, each producing around a litre of milk per week. Visitors can watch the dairy's operation and the kids can cuddle the lambs. After the tour you can taste the dairy's range of sheep cheese and yoghurts. Ph: (08) 8553 9110.
Ferguson Australia: There are lobsters and crabs aplenty here at this working depot. You can purchase gourmet goodies, gift packs and condiments. Ph: (08) 8346 8764. Go to www.fergusonaustralia.com.
Ordway's Kangaroo Island Poultry: Ordway's supplies some of Australia's top restaurants with free-range, organic chickens.
Sunset Winery: Located at Penneshaw, Sunset Winery is famous for their tasting plates which include local cheese. Ph: (08) 8553 1378. Go to www.sunset-wines.com.au.
