There's more to the so-called Northern Rivers area of NSW than spas, chakras and lattes. Those who opt to avoid Byron's crowds will find hidden pockets of rainforest, laid back farmer's markets and uncrowded surf breaks.
To have the place all to yourself, visit in winter, when the days are still balmy but the tourist numbers are down. Base yourself in Ballina (a sleepy town surrounded by river estuaries), Bangalow (with cute painted buildings set amidst rolling hills) or Lennox Head (a relaxed surfie village with an incredible beach) and start exploring:
Learn to surf at Lennox Head
Mojo Surf instructors are nothing if not enthusiastic. They endeavour to get even the wobbliest grommets standing up before the end of their two-hour lesson, and for those who can't even master the foam beginners boards, they'll provide a raftlike paddleboard to give you that extra bit of stability, then slap you on the back enthusiastically when you wobble to your feet. More importantly, the lesson begins with an explanation of wave behaviour and a lecture on surviving rip currents that might just save your life one day. Lessons take place on or around the iconic surf breaks of Lennox Head, with it's massive sweeping beach and cute surf club kiosk.
Paddle a kayak up the Ballina River
Dolphin Kayaking will take you paddling through the miles of riverine habitat that surround Ballina, pointing out waterbirds, rays, turtles and (if you're lucky) dolphin mothers nursing their calves. Even without the 'dolphin' part, river kayaking is a fantastic way to slip through mangrove channels and glassy river inlets, with only pelicans and sea eagles for company. Many of Dolphin Kayaking's tours also visit the
Seabird Rescue Centre in Ballina, which looks after birds and turtles that have fallen victim to the fishing lines, oil slicks, plastic rubbish and boat collisions that we humans like to unleash on them. The centre, which relies on donations, gives educational tours that include visits to the animals under its care.
Visit a market
The Northern Rivers is the birthplace of the weekend market culture, which originated from The Channon Country Market, just out of Lismore, some 20-odd years ago. These days, just about every town and village in the Northern Rivers district has a farmers' market, and the tourist information centres all have handy lists of
market days and times. You'll find locals and 'sea changers' strolling around and catching up with the gossip with artists, craftspeople, woodworkers, blacksmiths, potters, horticulturists, fruit and vegie vendors, pizza makers, cookie bakers, buskers, clowns, palm readers, psychics, astrologers, and people who fervently believe that coconut oil or bee propolis is the cure for all known ailments.
Take a night vision walk in the rainforest
One activity that's unique to the Northern Rivers is a night vision walk. A what? Basically, this is a bushwalk taken after dark wearing a pair of night vision goggles like those used by spies or the military. Usually shy, nocturnal creatures like pademelons and bandicoots are much bolder after sunset, and the goggles allow you to see them even on the most pitch black night. The walks end with hot chocolate under the stars at Minyon Falls and also include a visit to a magical glow worm colony. The walks are great for kids, of course, but even grown men tend to behave like ten-year-olds once their commando-style goggles are on! This is the only experience of its kind in the world. To book or find out more, go to
www.visionwalks.com.
How to get there
Jetstar, Virgin Blue and Rex (Regional Express) fly direct to Ballina from Sydney, or it's a three hour drive from Brisbane or a ten hour drive from
Sydney.
Find a holiday house in the Northern Rivers
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