With so many options for Aussie vineyard hopping, it takes a lot to impress. In a boozy quest for the very best, Joshua Crouthamel discovers why the Clare Valley in South Australia takes "first place" as the country's best place for woine toime.
The setting
Simply put, the Clare Valley is stunningly beautiful. The rolling hills blanketed with vines and forest are home to dozens of small towns, each with its own personality and charm. Crisp evenings and sunny days are the norm, the climate lending itself perfectly to the robust rieslings the region is famous for.
The characters
The Clare's manifold charms have attracted an eclectic mix of some of Australia's most interesting — and wonderfully eccentric — individuals who have opted for a "vine change". High-flying board members, acclaimed artists, celebrity chefs and urban trendsetters have all picked up sticks to move to the Clare and, as such, there's a memorable character behind every (gallery, boutique and cellar) door.
On your drive from Adelaide to the Clare, be sure to pop in to Salon Rouge Gallery in Kapunda to meet Jacqueline Coates. Her gallery plays host to ongoing workshops, and it's likely there will be a few students-cum-friends laughing over a glass of wine, dripping paintbrushes tucked into hair or behind ears.
Once in Mintaro, head over to Jen Penglase-Prior's Irongate Studio. The contemporary artist is the consummate hostess — no doubt she'll answer her door in designer stilettos, an elegant cocktail dress with her face covered in paint or pastel smudges, which only adds to the sincerity of her smile. She showcases her own contemporary art alongside bold works by up-and-comings, the glasswork by artists from Adelaide's JamFactory is some of the best in the business.
Do you have a soft spot for a good "whodunnit"? Don't miss a themed murder mystery or spooky cellar-door night at Martindale Hall. Stepping into Martindale Hall feels just like you've walked onto the pages of The Great Gatsby, and proprietor John Maguire tells his tale of a deranged killer and the horrible events about to unfold, a la Murder on the Orient Express. His quirky storytelling and pride in the property combine to make for an entertaining evening.
The food
The Clare has attracted some of the most creative, innovative chefs from around the country to the valley to serve master-meals complementing the ubiquitous vino. You'll be hard-pressed to find a bad bite here, but here are some venues that will leave you with foodie memories you can dine out on for years:
Lunch at Reilly's Wines is absolutely not to be missed. Start with one of the most impressive antipasto platters you've ever indulged in, work your way on to a mouth-watering rabbit terrine and roasted quail, then just try to say no to manager Kathy Gertau as she tempts you with an exquisite array of dessert deliciousness. A sunny table for two on the veranda at Reilly's, a bottle of riesling and an excellent feed spell heaven in these hills.
For a light lunch and equally ambient atmosphere, pop into the Station Café at Mount Horrocks. Set in the old railway station in Auburn, chef Andrea Mitchell's menu is made up of locally grown produce, and fleshed out with tasty pastries.
And for a generous feed at pub prices, head to the Sevenhill Hotel. If you like a bit of 'roo, be sure to try the steaks filleted with plum sauce. The pub makes a damn fine curry as well. If you've got a group, be sure to book the communal table in the downstairs wine cellar. And even if you're not, take your waitress up on the offer to go down there and select your evening drop. The knowledge and frankness of the staff ("Don't waste your money on that one, honey, you'll just be paying for the fancypants label!") is characteristically Clare.
The wine
Clare Valley is home to more than 40 wineries. Here are four stand-outs (chosen not only for the wine they produce, but for the personalities behind each cellar door), and one to miss:
This stone cottage dates back to the 1850s, and in it Kathy Gertau serves up signature Clare drops like the Late Picked Watervale Riesling, but also some big, bold reds — ask her to tell you the story behind the Stolen Block shiraz. And her grenache will knock your socks off.
Not into the pomp and circumstance often associated with wine culture? Talk to Rasa Fabian at Crabtree. This hilarious, engaging Clare character isn't either. And she'll tell you this over a glass — or three — of delicious tempranillo. Even if you usually turn your nose up at sweet wines, have a crack at the Crabtree Zibibbo — which becomes increasingly fun to pronounce the longer you stick around.
The oldest winery in the valley, Sevenhill was started in the early 1850s by Jesuit monks from Austria. What began as a sacramental wine vineyard now produces a full range of delicious drops. Since you're in the Clare you'll likely try the St Aloysius riesling, but when it comes to reds the St Ignatius is a truly awesome blend.
If you ask the unbiased locals — those who
aren't in the trade — what they drink at home, most reply that Mount Horrocks wines are their house drops of choice. Winemaker and proprietor Stephanie Toole has her hands on some of the valley's best grapes, and each of her five labels is distinct and delicious.
With so many family-run, homey and downright gorgeous vineyards, the tacky Excalibur-esque presence of Taylors shouldn't feature on your itinerary. Sure, they produce a passable plonk for budget boozers, but spend your time meeting winemakers in their own home-cum-cellar-doors instead; Rasa is likely to have just whipped up some of her famous fig chutney at Crabtree and, back at Reilly's, Kathy will be keen to introduce you to her head chef, who will no doubt want to show off his thriving vegie patch and talk with excitement about eventually growing all the greens served in-house — you get the picture.
The alternatives
Not into wine? What's wrong with you?
I kid. But seriously, while you work on this, there are a couple of notable vineyard alternatives worth checking out in the Clare while your better half goes cellar door-to-door.
On a sunny day, a cycle along the Riesling Trail is a must. The well-compacted trail is 27km long and follows the old Riverton to Spalding railway line. The hills are gentle, the views are stellar and the exercise? Very welcome after all the indulgence the Clare offers.
Beer buffs better make a beeline to Knappstein Brewery. The beer is of the best Bavarian lagers around, with an impressive amount of love being poured into the Knappstein brew. Be sure to speak to master brewer Chris Sheehan; his ale-smarts and passion for the plonk are second to none. And as he's personally involved in the process from start to finish, you'll understand why his beer is only available in select locales.
For a bit of a history lesson, head out to Burra. The mining town has a fascinating past: the copper boom in Burra saved South Australia from bankruptcy in 1845 and, in its heyday, boasted a population larger than Brisbane and Perth combined. These days it's a sleepy hamlet with interesting sites easily experienced on a self-drive day trip.
The comforts of home
Treat yourself to one of the very best of Australia's B&Bs at
Thorn Park by the Vines. Perhaps the most exclusive accommodation option in the country (there are only two rooms), a stay at David Hay and Michael Speers' home is likely to be the highlight of any Clare experience.
David Hay regularly features in the foodie press, so a meal at his table is an event to remember. One guest recently wrote: "The immaculate table featured this handwritten menu — prawn and asparagus soup with fresh coriander, marinated beef with pesto and warm beetroot and mustard-seed salad, followed by a duo of puddings; chocolate and citrus with passionfruit sorbet. And every bite was bliss."
Been to the Clare Valley? Have any trip tips to add to the above? Share them below.
